This past month’s fashion calendar has been marked as one of the most anticipated months in the industry, with the debut of new creative directors at some of the world’s leading maisons. At Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks, fashion was renewed once again.
In fashion, the creative director is responsible for guiding a brand’s aesthetic, positioning and narrative. Each change in this leadership represents more than a behind-the-scenes adjustment; it’s a strategic shift capable of redefining a brand’s DNA on the global stage. But is every change an evolution?
Milan Fashion Week
On the Italian catwalks, four debuts marked the beginning of a new chapter for some brands.
Demna era at Gucci
After years at Balenciaga‘s helm, Georgian designer Demna took over at Gucci for the September 23rd show. Known for his radical deconstruction, his debut featured a provocative lookbook that revisited Italian stereotypes in a caricatured way. Replacing Sabato de Sarno, the designer arrives at a sensitive time for the brand.
The only option: Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander
Simone Bellotti brings over 20 years of experience in the fashion world and debuted on September 24. According to Renzo Rosso, president of OTB Group, the Italian designer shares Jil Sander’s strategic vision and mission as well as the values of innovation and sophistication that make it an iconic and unique brand.
Isn’t it Versace? It’s Vitale!
With stints at Miu Miu and Bottega Veneta, Dario Vitale debuted at Versace on September 26th. The first creative director without a family name, he replaces the irreplaceable Donatella Versace. Vitale arrives amid Prada‘s acquisition of the brand, a historic moment for Italian luxury.
Louise Trotter: The second woman at Bottega Veneta’s charge
Louise Trotter‘s first collection for Bottega Veneta was presented on September 27th. The British designer succeeds French designer Matthieu Blazy and brings femininity and a focus on craftsmanship. The brand is expected to grow, emphasizing it’s signature intrecciato leather, but in a more understated and sophisticated version.
Paris Fashion Week
In the French capital, the number of debuts was even greater: seven creative directors took to the runway for the first time.
Bye Bye, Loewe! Hello, Dior!
The first day of October was marked by one of the most anticipated debuts of this season. Jonathan Anderson, who made history at Loewe, took over all Dior lines, succeeding Maria Grazia Chiuri. The British designer’s arrival is seen as a strategic move by LVMH, which seeks to renew the brand’s aesthetic and cultural strength.
Mugler: synonym for modern luxury
Portuguese designer Miguel Castro Freitas made his Mugler debut on October 2nd, replacing American Casey Cadwallader. Miguel, who has worked at Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, and Sportmax, is expected to maintain the house’s theatrical style, but with a more refined style.
Carven by british hands
Mark Howard Thomas filled the vacancy left by Louise Trotter, after she left for Bottega. Thomas joined Carven in 2023 as head of sartorial and creative collaborations and made his debut on October 2nd. The British designer previously held various design roles at brands including Givenchy and Lacoste. Carven said in a brief statement that the team will continue to build on the foundations and refine the codes and style forged for the house.
Duo command: Loewe
With Jonathan Anderson’s departure for Dior, Loewe is now headed by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler. The show, on October 3rd, demonstrated how the Americans will continue the legacy of one of the most sought-after brands of the last decade.
Back to tradition! Pierpaolo at Balenciaga
After 25 years at Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli made his Balenciaga debut on October 4th. Known for his mastery of haute couture, with iconic volumes and colors, the Italian designer succeeds Demna, who left for Gucci. The expectation is that his vision will bring back echoes of Cristóbal Balenciaga‘s tradition: less shock and more emotional sophistication.
Diesel-powered, heading to Margiela
Having led Diesel since 2020, Glenn Martens took over Maison Margiela in early 2025. The Belgian designer is known for his bold and sustainable approach, and his vision for Margiela promises to amplify this deconstruction, which was unveiled on October 4, replacing John Galliano.
ABC: After Bottega, Chanel!
After three successful years at Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy made his Chanel debut on October 6th. The French-Belgian succeeds Virginie Viard, a collaborator of Karl Lagerfeld. Blazy is expected to bring creative freshness to a brand that, while solid, has lacked artistic impact in recent years.
The changes in creative directors at these brands are crucial for the luxury market. It’s not just about the visual aspect, but also about strategies to refresh the brands and attract a new audience. According to Vogue Business, these changes can pose risks, such as losing their identity or alienating existing customers.
Therefore, the debuts of new creative directors spark great interest in the market and fans, who want to know what direction the brand will take. Major fashion houses are experiencing a decisive moment for international fashion, with the potential to renew their identities and influence future trends.
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The article above was edited by Helena Maluf
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