For most of my life, I absolutely hated my hair. It was frizzy, thick, and impossible to take care of. When I brushed it out, I would end up looking like Hagrid from Harry Potter, and that was on a good day. If you asked me to describe my hair texture back then, I wouldn’t be able to tell you. My hair wasn’t quite straight but had weird kinks in it that weren’t quite waves either. For years, I was convinced that I had damaged my hair; I never saw anyone else with the same hair texture as mine.
If that story sounds familiar, then I have news for you: your hair isn’t damaged, it’s curly. It probably looks the way it does because you’ve been caring for it as if it were straight. If you have no idea where to begin on your curly-haired journey, don’t stress! Here are some pointers to guide you on the path to embracing your curls:
- Figure out your curl type
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The first step to figuring out how to take care of your curls is figuring out what type of curl you have (yes, there are different types of curls). Curl type ranges from a spectrum of 1-4, with 1 being straight and 4 being extremely curly. Each curl family also has a subcategory of a, b, or c, with a being the loosest and c being the tightest. It sounds confusing, but figuring out what category you fall under is really easy. Just Google “curl type chart” and you’ll see a variety of pictures of every curl type. Also, keep in mind that you probably have more than one curl type. Although these generally fall in the same curl family, they don’t always.
- Build a routine
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PSA: the reason your hair doesn’t look curly is because you’ve been caring for it like you would straight hair. Shampoo and conditioner are important for keeping your hair clean and soft, but they’re not enough; styling products are what allow your hair to hold its curl. Washing curly hair without using product is like using nail polish without a top coat; it’s not going to look how you want it to, and you’re not going to be able to go as long between washes. That being said, you don’t have to buy a ton of products to style your hair. At minimum, your routine should consist of shampoo or co-wash, conditioner, and some sort of styling product. The styling product(s) you should use depends on your curl type, hair thickness, and how much definition and hold you prefer; usually, this will be some form of mousse, gel, cream, texturizing spray, or some combination of the four. What works for someone else may not work for you even if you have the same hair type, so don’t be afraid to experiment.
The way you apply your product matters. To apply it evenly, rub the product on your hands, flip your hair upside down, and put your hands together like you’re praying, and run them down the length of your hair. When the product has been evenly distributed, take a handful of hair and scrunch it against your scalp. If you’ve done this correctly, you’ll hear a squishing noise. Ideally, when applying product, your hair should be dripping wet. If you need to, add water into your hair as you are scrunching; this will ensure that your curls clump and don’t end up broken up and stringy. You should use this method when applying your conditioner as well as any styling products in order to keep your curl pattern intact.
- Be careful about what you put in your hair
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The ingredients you put in your hair matter regardless of your hair texture, but they affect curly hair a lot more. Sulfates, silicone, alcohols, and parabens are all key ingredients to avoid.
It may be tempting to just grab the first thing off the shelf that is marketed for curly hair, but a lot of these products will actually end up doing more harm than good for your curls. It’s important to do your research before you buy; although intended for curly hair, many of these products tend to include the ingredients I mentioned above as well as others that you may not want anywhere near your head.
- Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize!
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You’ve heard that phrase a million times when it comes to your skin, but it’s just as important for your hair. While thinner hair may be able to benefit just from using a nourishing conditioner, coarser hair usually requires additional products, such as leave-in conditioner, oils, serums, or hair masks. Without moisture, hair tends to frizz up and is a lot harder to tame.
- The way you dry your hair matters
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There are a couple of different ways you can dry your hair. Some people swear by air drying, while others prefer to use a blow dryer. It all comes down to personal preference. If you blow-dry your curls, use a diffuser on the low or cool setting; this will not only help to prevent heat damage by evenly distributing the heat, but it will also prevent frizz and add definition.
If you have a looser curl type (2a-3b), consider plopping for 30 minutes to an hour before you allow your hair to dry completely. This consists of flipping your hair upside down and tying it in a t-shirt so the curls can sit on top of your head and are not impacted by gravity while they dry. If you’re confused, check out this helpful video!
- Protect your curls while you sleep
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Unfortunately, unlike people with straight hair, we can’t just sleep on our hair and comb it out the next morning. You shouldn’t try to detangle curly hair while it’s dry, so that means we can’t exactly run a brush through it when it gets disheveled. There are many different ways you can protect your hair while you sleep. I personally loop mine through a scrunchie once to create a loose messy bun and then tie it up in a t-shirt as if I am going to plop it. You can also tie it up with a scarf or use a silk pillowcase to prevent breakage.
If your curls aren’t looking the way you want them to the next day, you can “refresh” them. There are refreshing sprays that you can buy on the market, or you can make your own by combining water, conditioner, and a styling product of choice. When you spray the refresher into your curls and scrunch them, it reactivates the styling product that you put in it after you washed it, allowing it to hold its shape longer.
- Put down the hair straightener (as much as you can)
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Ideally, you want to avoid heat styling your hair if at all possible. For some of us, though, that isn’t always realistic. Occasionally heat styling your hair will not hurt your curls, but over time, it can damage your hair and have an effect on your curl pattern. If you do choose to use heat on your hair (even just to blow dry it), make sure to use a good heat protectant.
- Don’t be afraid to bleach or dye your hair (but be careful about it!)
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Bleach and dye can mess with your curl pattern, especially if you decide to do it at home or choose an inexperienced stylist. In addition, if you do it too often, you risk losing your curl pattern, or even worse, your hair. However, if you get an experienced professional to do it, any damage to your hair can be minimized and it may even be healthier than it was before you colored it!
When it comes to coloring your hair, the sky’s the limit! One tip I do have is to consider getting a balayage done as opposed to highlights; it requires a lot less maintenance because it grows out beautifully and looks amazing on both curly and straight hair, so it’s perfect if you wear your hair both ways. Plus, unlike highlights, balayage is customizable to your specific curl pattern, allowing your stylist to enhance your curls in the best way possible.
- Experiment with different styles to find what works for you
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The beauty in having curly hair is that there are countless ways you can style it. It can even be as simple as changing up your part. I parted my hair in the middle for the longest time, just as I did when I wore it straight. Recently though, I’ve been loving the extra volume I get with a side part. If you want to go fancier, you can try half-up half-down styles, braids, an updo, and more; the possibilities are endless! Whatever the occasion or the vibe you’re going for, there is a hairstyle out there for you.
Working with curly hair can be really frustrating, especially when you’re still getting used to it. Some days, it might look perfect, while others, it might be impossible to tame no matter what you do with it (scarves and hats are absolute lifesavers those days!). It’s also really easy to get discouraged on your curl journey because results aren’t always instantaneous. For some people, their curl pattern shows up right away when they start using the right products. For others, it may take longer due to damage, sometimes even to the point where the curl pattern has been permanently affected and the hair needs to be chopped off. If that’s you, don’t worry! It may take months, or even years, to fully get your hair to where you want it to be. Damage can’t undo itself overnight. But as long as you love your curls, they will slowly but surely love you back.