We’ve all been there, an awkward try on session. You walk into a generic store for a bra fitting because you can’t remember the last time you’ve had one, the fitter walks you into a changing room, asks you what size you currently are, measures your under bust with a tape over your clothes and measures your over bust. They tell you what size you are and hand you a bra in that size to try on. It doesn’t quite fit right, but you feel the need to buy it anyway, and six others in that size from Primark, and wear them until you repeat the same cycle in a few years’ time.
But what if I told you that most of those “bra specialists” aren’t actually putting you in the right size? An estimated 80% of women are wearing the wrong bra size and this is harmful. Now, I’m no bra specialist, but after years of research and testing out various different sizes and shops, I’ve come to the conclusion that the mainstream bra world does not actually care about the women they’re selling to. From fit, to self-image, we need to fight this bra injustice.
So, how does bra sizing work?
If you walk into most commercial bra stores, bras tend to range from AA-DD or AA-F, with some stores going up to a G if you order online. For the bra novice, this may sound very inclusive. An F is massive, right?
Not necessarily. We’ve grown up with a very patriarchal view of bra sizing. In TV shows, films and even drawings, men in media seem to love talking about cup sizes and this false information is reflected in our perspective. There are plenty of fuller-bust social media influencers, who are often targeted with comments, claiming that they are lying about their bra size. We’re obsessed with cup size, when in reality, the cup is the least significant measurement.
This is where band sizing becomes important. The band size is the number closest to the circumference of your under bust and is very important as this is where the bra gives support to the wearer. Now, this may come out as an odd number, which you can either round up or down. The cup size comes from the difference in inches between your under bust, and the fullest part of your bust. So:
- A less than one-inch difference measures to an AA cup.
- A one-inch difference measures to an A cup.
- A two-inch difference measures to a B cup
- And so on….
For example, if your under bust measures at 31 inches, and the fullest part of your bust measures at 37 inches, then your best fit may be bras in a 30F or a 32F, but you may also want to try out other sizes that are close to this. These are all fairly small measurements, which is why someone wearing this bra size may appear to be what we as a society recognise as a C cup.In reality, cup size means nothing without the band.
Oftentimes, bra stores use the ‘+4 method’, which is where they add 4 inches to the under bust to determine the customer’s band size. They may then use sister-sizing to confirm cup size. These are sizes that accommodate the same cup volume as the true size, but have larger bands. If we were to +4 and sister-size someone who should be wearing a 30F, they would end up being given a 34D, which may fit somewhat, but isn’t the best fit and won’t give the wearer the right support. They’d spend all day readjusting, and that just isn’t at all practical.
But I’m wearing the right size. Why don’t my breasts look like the models on the website? We’re wearing the same bra!
A lot of women buy bras in the correct size and expect them to look like they do on those who model them. But I hate to break it to you, almost all models wearing bras will have a somewhat formulated cleavage. The reality is, models don’t actually wear their correct size in mainstream lingerie photoshoots and the final shots are airbrushed. A smaller bra will always appear to give you more cleavage, because there is no space for your breasts to fit fully into the cups. This is actually called ‘spillage’ and can be both uncomfortable and risky (no one likes a nip slip in a lecture!). Your breasts don’t look like that in an average t-shirt bra, because nobody’s do!
Breasts come in all shapes and sizes. Round, bell, teardrop, wide set, close set, athletic and plenty more. Everyone is unique. It’s also important to know that different types of bras will give varying effects. Wired, non-wired. Padded, non-padded. Push-up, moulded cup, lace, longline, strapless, sports. Each of them will give support and shape to the wearer in different ways. It’s all about testing to find out what works for you.
What I’ve learnt:
My anger towards the commercial bra industry has existed for years. The topic of bad-fitting bras was covered in an episode of the comedy show The IT Crowd (2007), which I first watched at the age of 12. I saw how a poor fitting bra affected the comfortability of a female character, Jen, both mentally shaking her confidence at work, and later physically hurting her. “It’s pinching my sides…the straps are digging into my shoulders…it’s not giving my breasts proper support.” Jen’s experience is one that we’ve all had, but it needs to end now. Otherwise, we risk discomfort, outwardly and inwardly.
The relationship an individual has with their own body is incredibly personal, and the way they believe other people will see them can be impactful. My own body image has fluctuated, but this is also a natural part of growing up. Bodies change and develop, even after adolescence and it takes time to learn self-love. But if you love your underwear, then you’ll love outfits even more. And who doesn’t love wearing their best outfit!