Trigger Warning: This article discusses issues of unhealthy weight loss and body image.
What do K-pop idols, ‘Pink Pilate Princesses’, tea-toxes and juice cleanses, glow-ups, #thatgirl, and Bella Hadid have in common?
Their popularity, among many others dominating our zeitgeist, indicates the alarming resurgence of skinny culture. Waif-like figures are popular again, videos of Korean celebrities discussing (and revering) extreme weight loss diets regularly circulate the media. Fitted exercise wear – revealing flat but toned stomachs, are back to being the ideal. Like a phoenix, skinny culture has remerged from its ashes, potentially putting an end to the ‘body positivity’ era for good.
Now don’t get me wrong, I am an avid consumer of K-media, I enjoy pilates, I could drink tea and freshly squeezed juice all day every day. I’m a big supporter of self-improvement and self-confidence, and I will always love and respect Bella Hadid (her health story is complicated, and this is in no way a judgement of her body!!!).
However, my love cannot hide my concern. Each of these topics are just some of the many bricks in the fortress of the modern-day skinny ideal. With the re-emergence of skinny-focused fashion trends like heroin chic and the Y2K aesthetic, a fortress that had begun to fade into the distance is now looming larger than ever.
Is the thin ideal really back? And did it ever go away?
As a relatively skinny woman myself, I can attest to the idealisation of leaner bodies. I was not always this way. I was a fairly chubby child up until my early teens. My drastic weight loss was a result of illness. And even though ‘thin me’ was much less healthy than ‘fat me’, over time my body went from being teased and shamed, to admired and envied. Skinny shaming may exist, but it is overwhelmingly overshadowed by skinny privilege. Meanwhile, fatphobia does not come with a privileged counterpart.
The truth is skinny culture never went away. It just got better at disguising itself. Among its many disguises, the favourite has always been ‘health’ and ‘wellness’. Today, this disguise continues to thrive with the wellness market estimated to be worth more than $1.5 trillion. Trends like the ‘Pink Pilate Princess’, tea-toxes and juice cleanses, glow-ups and the #thatgirl aesthetic all capitalise on the quest for wellness, and while many aspects of these trends can contribute to true wellness, beware of skinny culture lurking in its depths.
Skinny culture may appear to be ‘resurging’ because these days it’s less interested in disguising itself. Purposefully provocative statements shaming fatness and claiming a love for “being skinny” litter the internet. Thinness is back to being openly romanticised. From the “so you think I’m skinny” audio going viral during the pandemic to the rise of SkinnyTok and meanspiration, skinny culture is THRIVING. Meanwhile, trends like the ‘chubby filter’ use fatshaming for amusement.
The downfall of body positivity and inclusivity
The body positivity movement began in the 1960s, but only became a part of mainstream culture in the 2010s. While the movement is far from perfect – some preferring body neutrality – it cannot be denied that it has helped many to accept, appreciate, and even love their body. This ‘resurgence’ of skinny culture is a tragic step back from the progress the movement had made.
Skinny culture’s reclaim to fame can be seen across industries. In cosmetic surgery, the popular BBL (aka Brazilian Butt Lift) has been replaced with the “ballet body”. In the fashion industry, a size inclusivity report shows that only 0.8% of runway models are plus-sized (US 14+) and 4.3% are mid-sized (US 6-12). On the internet, searches for “quick weight loss” have increased by 581%. And then there’s the celebrity-endorsed boom of weight loss drugs like Ozempic.
It is undeniable: body positivity is falling, and skinny culture is rising.
Self-care vs self-sabotage
On the other side of the spectrum is the glorification of self-sabotage. With self-care becoming more of a buzzword than a genuine practice, not taking care of yourself is trendy again. Despite my carefully curated feed, I often see posts/memes of people flaunting their “one meal a day” or replacing meals with coffee. The comments of such posts are usually flooded with agreement and validation.
Both online and off, “forgetting to eat” is so normalized – and strangely admired! Eating regular meals has become shameful, unless they’re “clean”, “healthy” or coupled with one of the favoured fitness aesthetics.
Are we doomed to a skinny culture that lasts forever?
We can’t dismantle a centuries-old fortress with our bare hands (trust me, I would have done it ages ago if I could). But, we can choose not to enter through its door. Skinny culture is pervasive and imposing. Escaping can seem impossible. However, fear not brave soul! You have more power than you think.
Rejecting skinny culture requires us to reframe our understanding of health, wellness, and ourselves. We must constantly question our motivations for self-improvement. Are your wellness goals based on changing your body based on society’s idealistic values and opinions? That’s not true wellness, that’s skinny culture. Before following any health or fitness advice, check whether the person you are following is a real professional or simply someone driven by their own insecurities.
Curating your feed and being conscious of the media you consume is vital. Always ask: how does this person/movie/song/tv show/hobby make me feel about myself? If it evokes even the slightest insecurity, unfollow, block, or stop engaging with it. Remind yourself that every body is meant to be different. The beauty of humanity is the complexity of our diversity! Trends shift and change, and bodies should not be one of them.
I leave you with a not-so-fun fact: did you know that skinny culture has its roots in colonialism, capitalism, and the patriarchy? Yeah, skinny culture is rooted in the very systems that oppress us! That’s something to think about next time you consider skipping a meal in the name of being skinny.