By the Fireplace from Maison Margiela
A spicy-sweet gourmand that features notes of cloves, orange flower, chestnuts, and vanilla.
My impression: It’s snowing outside and you’re reclining into a plush vintage leather chair that your great-great grandmother left to you in her will. Your cat leaps from the fireplace and almost knocks your cuppa off an heirloom oak side table. The heat and smoke of the fire coaxes you into sinking deeper in your seat. Mariah Carey is belting in the background while your cat tries to smother you. Life is good.
On my skin, this is a woody scent with a hint of smoke. The spicy impression develops into vanilla and sugar as it warms up and rests. The smokiness is reminiscent of s’mores and crispy marshmallows, evoking memories of childhood days by the fireside.
My Rating: ⅘
This is a plush scent dominated by the top notes, the gourmand nature of the vanilla and chestnuts develops later on the skin. A comfortable crowd pleaser but I would personally prefer more nuttiness. The smoke is well blended but the note itself is still very noticeable even when it becomes sweeter.
Oajan by Parfums de Marly
A sweeter honey cinnamon gourmand with affections of crispy pine trees, tart berries, and boozy velvet that deepen the fragrance into a grande dame. It’s thick like syrup in the air and full bodied.
My Impression: Your rich aunt drops in on the family christmas feast with husband #6. Only one more until lucky number 7, she jokes. She’s wrapped in a thick wooly statement coat that you’ve only seen on a Kardashian (one of the classier ones, Kourtney or Kris) and she brings – or well, her husband carries – a peace offering of designer fruitcake from a bakery in NYC that charges $40 for overnight shipping. Your grandmother has a long suffering sigh and warns you against growing up to become her. You feel nothing but awe.
To me, this is a very creamy scent that melts into my skin. It’s Christmas but adult. A spicy cake paired with a rich Amaretto sour. Someone at the table is smoking a Cuban cigar and the kids are breaking down a gingerbread house in the room next door. The Christmas tree is well decorated and very freshly cut.
My Rating: 5/5
Incredible but a little overbearing. I love it but I wouldn’t be able to wear it to class or work. Very very festive and rich.
Falling Stars on Winter Solstice by Alkemia
An indie take on a cold winter walk. It’s difficult to describe the scent besides atmospheric, cold, and woody.
My Impression: You’re 8 and you’re on a walk with your parents to look at houses better decorated than yours. Your classmates are too old to believe in Santa but your eyes still widen in awe and wonder at the magic of Christmas. Your parents are holding hands and you run ahead by yourself. It’s almost Christmas. You feel a chill ticking your nose and you sneeze.
There’s ice, trees, and the gassy aftertaste of cars driving back home. I get hints of juniper and fir with the tiniest bit of smoke.
My Rating: 5/5
Alkemia has great holiday collections and I love how explorative the house is with creating atmospheric fragrances. I get a lot of nostalgia with this one. It’s not quite aquatic, spicy, or woody but you get hints of these profiles in the complex mix. It’s snow melting on pine needles as you watch from your parents car, with oldies rumbling on the radio.