While I assumed Spain was going to have a mild winter, possibly resembling the consistently 15-20 degree Januarys I’ve experienced back home in LA, I soon discovered I was deeply misinformed. In case you’re not familiar with Madrid’s weather, as I was not until three weeks ago, it can get cold here, very cold, and very rainy. In fact, I’ve seen more storm clouds than sun since moving, and I’ve been getting lots of use out of the umbrella I impulsively brought and thought I was rarely going to need.
Even though I am abroad and free of the Baltic winds of lovely St. Andrews, I have still been fighting the seasonal blues that come with bad weather. Thankfully, Madrid has plenty to offer, so here are the places I’ve been visiting to fend off the negative winter energy.
Museums
I was told by everyone I know from Spain before arriving that I had to visit the three main museums in Madrid and I have heeded that advice. The big three are the Thyssen-Bornemisza, the Reina Sofia, and Prado. I started off with the largest and most famous, the Prado, then on later dates made my way to the Thyssen and the Reina Sofia.
Let me tell you, there is nothing like a big, beautiful museum on a miserable day to pass the time. Each collection is absolutely massive, with temporary exhibits that rotate every few months, meaning just seeing one can take a whole day. This has been wonderful news for me as I would rather absorb some fabulous art and meander around than sit in bed all day watching the rain through my window. Plus, the Prado and Reina Sofia are free for students and the Thyssen has a reduced rate, so it’s one of the most affordable outings available.
If that hasn’t convinced you, maybe the artists featured will. Whether or not you’re an art lover, you’ll probably have heard of Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Francisco de Goya, Edgar Degas, and Claude Monet — all of whom are featured in the museums among many others.
While wandering the exhibits at the Reina Sofia, I discovered an appreciation for cubist and surrealist painting. In the Prado I was wowed by Goya’s Black Paintings that were transferred from the walls of his home many years ago to frames for display. And in the Thyssen I was moved by the sheer variety of work — from abstract to pop art to classical portraits — and was overjoyed to find a few pieces by Georgia O’Keefe.
Personally, I prefer the Thyssen and the Reina Sofia to the Prado as they were less busy and highlighted more contemporary works, however, you truly cannot go wrong. On any day in Madrid a visit to one or multiple is a great choice, but especially on a chilly winter day.
Cozy Eats
If you know me, you know that the most important part of my travels is always the food. There are few things I love more than exploring the food scene of a new city, and I will spend hours researching the best places on offer. There are also few things I love more on a cold, rainy day than spending a few hours at a cute café, reading or people-watching with a warm drink. Thankfully, Madrid is full of such places and I have only just scratched the surface.
I actually first came across Acid Café in Berlin where I enjoyed one of the best pain au chocolats of my life while my friend raved about the thick pieces of sourdough and butter she’d gotten as an afternoon snack. I was, of course, overjoyed to discover Madrid has a few locations after I stumbled across one near the Prado Museum. Now, I’ll admit, it’s not the cheapest place you’re going to find but there’s always a cool vibe inside and places to sit and read a book or do some work.
If you want somewhere more unique to Spain, one of my friends from Madrid recommended Natif Cafe to me and it was the first food destination I hit when I arrived. While it was packed on a Saturday morning, I have to say it was worth the 15 minute wait in the cold. Such a great energy in there and the food and drink selection is next level. I am still thinking about the Carbonara Benedict I got, plus, if there’s no room and you don’t want to wait there are plenty of places nearby you can pop in to like Osom. Or if you’re looking for a more elevated meal, there’s a Mune location nearby serving Lebanese fares that I have yet to get into but am determined to try.
For a taste of the US I’d head up to Chamartín to try Mazál Bagels (or brave their busier and newer location in Opera), a small joint serving NY-style bagels created by a Philly-native. As much as I love Scotland, I have yet to find a bagel that even rivals what I can get in the US, therefore, this place is a big deal for me personally. While I wouldn’t say it’s as NYC, the Chicken Schnitzel sandwich is pretty damn good and their diner-style bar offers much needed shelter from the Madrid weather. Even when busy, the wait at the Charmartín location isn’t too long, so if you’re fancying a warm bagel in a cozy diner-esque environment — paired with classic American tunes to keep you going — Mazal is for you.
Now I don’t think a list of Madrid food recommendations would be complete without mentioning churros…and what place is better than the most iconic churrería in the city: San Ginés? Are the lines long? Yes. Is it much better to order takeaway and eat it on the street? Yes. Is that very conducive to winter weather? Not particularly. But, from experience, there’s nothing cozier than taking refuge in a doorway with a bag of fresh churros and cup of steaming chocolate in your hands. This is more of a situation where the food warms you from the inside out and is a must for any visit to the city, no matter the time of year.
Keeping in mind that I’ve only been here for two weeks and study just outside of Madrid, this list is a work in progress and will be expanded on as time goes on and (hopefully) the weather gets better. However, these spots have been saving me amid the torrential rain and stormy winds, so, hopefully, they’ll do the same for you!