Have you ever found yourself in the middle of the skincare aisles in Ulta or Sephora, wondering what all the different niacinamides, AHAs, peptides, and acids mean, and what they do for your skin? If you have, you’re not alone.
This has been my personal journey, as I decided to start paying attention to my skincare routine, but I was never able to make the time to do the research until recently. I can assure you that you do not need to be a chemistry major to understand the basics of skincare; a little curiosity is enough!
So, let’s break down the ingredients of your skincare routine, minus all of the intimidation.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
If you notice that your skin is red, irritated, or feels tight, niacinamide might be your new best friend. It helps your skin produce ceramides, which are lipids that help repair your skin barrier by locking in moisture. Think of it as something that’s repairing the cracks in your skin’s wall to prevent hydration from escaping. You can use this in the morning or at night, and it can be paired with almost anything else in your routine.
Hyaluronic Acid
Although the name sounds harsh, it’s anything but that. It’s an amazing hydration booster that increases elasticity, giving your skin that glow. Chemically, it’s a polysaccharide, so it’s made of sugar molecules, which can hold up to 1,000 times their weight in water. It helps your skin stretch, reducing wrinkles and lines. A good tip when using hyaluronic acid is to apply it on damp skin, making it more effective so it can work its magic.
Vitamin C and Vitamin E
Vitamin C is one of the most popular antioxidants that brightens the skin and fades dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and boosts collagen. However, if you have acne-prone skin, it’s a good idea to introduce it slowly to your skin to prevent irritation. Vitamin C is also great for treating premature aging, as it helps fade sunspots, reduce wrinkles, and minimize scarring.
Vitamin E is typically applied as an oil to reduce inflammation, moisturize the skin, and improve the appearance of blemishes. It’s also found in eye creams as it can help lighten dark spots and pigmentation. For some people, it may be pore-clogging, as it can be a little sticky, so avoid using too much of it.
Kojic acid
Kojic acid is a naturally occurring substance that’s found in certain types of fungi and fermented foods. The primary use of kojic acid is to lighten dark spots and brighten the complexion by inhibiting the production of melanin in areas of discoloration. While it can be very effective, it can irritate and even cause contact dermatitis, so it’s important to consult a dermatologist and perform a patch test before using it.
AHAs glycolic acid
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are used for exfoliating the skin and may have additional benefits, such as brightening the skin. There are seven types of AHAs usually used in products, one of which is glycolic acid, which is quite popular. Glycolic acid is a gentle exfoliator that breaks down the bonds between dead skin cells, revealing brighter, smoother skin underneath. Keep in mind that you should start with a lower concentration if you’ve not used it before, as it can irritate sensitive skin.
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is a BHA, a beta-hydroxy acid that’s oil-soluble, so it can sink deep into your pores and dissolve sebum and dead cells. It can also dissolve blackheads and whiteheads, which form when pores get clogged, as well as target acne-causing bacteria and even out the skin tone. Excessive use of this product can cause dryness, so you should consult a dermatologist if you have concerns.
Retinol
Retinol, derived from Vitamin A, softens fine lines by stimulating collagen and elastin production. As it increases cell turnover, it can help skin look more radiant and reduce dark spots. It is essential to protect your skin from the sun when using retinoids, as they can increase your skin’s sensitivity to sun exposure, making it best to use them at night. As always, start with a lower concentration before moving on to something stronger to see how your skin reacts.
You may have noticed that many of these ingredients have overlapping benefits, so you might think they are interchangeable. However, some of these ingredients cannot be mixed or used at the same time, as they can be too harsh on your skin. Here are some examples:
→ AHAs/BHAs- too harsh when mixed
→ Vitamin C and retinol- Use vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night. They are both potent antioxidants, so mixing them can cause significant irritation.
→ Niacinamide and Vitamin C- They can cause temporary redness when mixed, which can cause both ingredients to be less effective.
All of these options are very subjective, and something that works well for your friend might not work for you, so don’t get overwhelmed by all the choices. Start with basic, not-so-harsh ingredients, so you don’t shock your skin with something new. This is especially important for people with acne-prone or sensitive skin, as you never know what can trigger your acne/redness. Something important to remember is that your topical skincare is only as effective as the skincare you ingest. In other words, your diet and water intake have a huge impact on your skin, so you are not helping your skin by using expensive products while eating unhealthy foods that will ultimately lead to inflammation.
Lastly, if you ever feel overwhelmed by the wide range of options now available in drugstores and cosmetic stores, don’t be afraid to ask a sales rep or do some research of your own (using reliable sources, of course!). And, always consult a dermatologist if you want to start using something new or if you notice your skin reacting badly to something!