Pastitsio is a food that holds a special significance in my life. I still remember my paternal grandmother’s chaotic movements as she cooked my favorite dish: Traditional Greek-Cypriot Pastitsio. She is the best cook I’ll ever know. One of my favorite dishes she made was Pastitsio. Greek-Cypriot food has always been my favorite. The food not only reminds me of my grandmother, I feel like I am at my second home.
The ingredients for Pastitsio are: two pounds of ground meat, Pastitsio noodles or two boxes of ziti or penne, six eggs, half a gallon of lukewarm milk, two cups of flour, two tablespoons of butter, two cups of grated parmesan, two tablespoons of Cinnamon, salt and pepper, and two small cans of tomato paste. The Pastitsio noodles can be found at most ethnic stores or sections. If you cannot find the noodles, you can substitute with ziti or penne. The eggs, milk, flour, butter and parmesan cheese should be separate to make the crema (sauce similar to béchamel).
The way I have learned to begin was by first boiling water then adding the pasta. While the pasta is cooking, put the ground meat in a skillet. When the meat is a little brown, add one to one and a half cans of tomato paste. Then add salt, pepper and Cinnamon. Boiling the pasta and preparing the meat are the short and easy steps for preparing Pastitsio.
From personal experience, I find the crema longer and more difficult to prepare. All six of the eggs are mixed with half a gallon of milk in a large pot. I prefer to beat the eggs prior mixing. Add one cup of flour to the mixture and whisk continuously until thickened and all the lumps are gone. The mixture will be extremely thick. The heat should be turned to low. Continue stirring. When the lumps are gone and the texture is precise, add two tablespoons of butter and one cup of parmesan cheese. I prefer to buy fresh parmesan and grate it myself rather than buying the package of Kraft.
Once the pasta is finished boiling, drain it and put it a large bowl. Add one and a half cups of the crema and three-fourths of a cup of parmesan. Mix everything together. Half of the pasta mixture is then put into a greased 9 x 13 baking dish. Similar to Lasagna, begin layering. The meat is layered over the noodles. Repeat the layering until there is no leftover pasta or meat. The crema is the top and final layer. The crema is spread. Scatter one fourth of a cup of parmesan. Place the dish into the oven and bake at 350 degrees for forty-five to fifty minutes or until the top is somewhat brown. Let the dish cool off for fifteen minutes before cutting and serving.
I wanted to learn to cook Pastitsio so I could have it any time I wanted and not depend on someone else. I also wanted to have a part of my heritage and grandmother with me. I see Pastitsio as the perfect dish for me because I love noodles, ground meat and crema. Although Pastitsio is similar to Lasagna, I prefer Pastitsio. On the journey of self-discovery, I learned that I enjoy cooking not only for myself, but for my friends and family. I want to share what I put my work and love into so others can enjoy. I want my loved ones to know that I appreciate them.
The first time I made Pastitsio was when I was staying with my friend and her family. I suggested that we cook a Greek meal. The whole family was excited to try something new. My friend had the experience of eating and the process of a new dish. It took my friend, her sister and me around three hours to complete the dish. We purchased the ingredients and prepared the meal according to directions I found online.
When purchasing the ingredients, my friend and I could not find the Pastitsio noodles. We substituted with penne pasta. We also substituted the ground beef with ground lamb. Lamb is a more common meat in Cyprus and Greece. I usually prefer lamb over beef. Our teamwork made the experience of cooking fun and accomplishing. Although our Pastitsio was delicious, it did not meet up to my grandmother’s talent.
My grandmother was born and raised in the small village of Goudi (woo-thee) in Paphos, Cyprus. In a society and generation oppressed by patriarchy, she was raised to be domestic, just like the other women of her generation. Rather than getting an education and a job, she became a mother and housewife. Her job was to clean, cook, raise the children, tend to the farm animals, help work in the fields and take care of her husband. These were also the responsibilities of the other women in her peasant class. Their lives revolved around patriarchy-giving men the power over women.
My grandmother’s domestic responsibility of cooking became her talent and one of the many qualities friends and family remembered. She learned to cook at a young age. If she did not learn, how would she feed her husband and children? Men cooking for the family was unheard of during her generation.
My grandmother learned to make many dishes passed down from generation to generation. I do not remember being told that my grandfather ever cooked. His role was to be the provider-make money and provide food for the family. He and his son (my dad) would hunt and my grandmother would cook.
My grandmother spoiled me while I was growing up. By assuming her traditional grandmother role, she cooked for me. Pastitsio was only one of the many dishes I loved. Other dishes included Dolmades, Keftedes, Trahana soup, potatoes and vegetables. She would spend hours cooking. I remember being excited to know what she would cook next. My best memories were of her dishes.
Cooking and food play great roles in the Greek culture. Greeks, especially women from villages, show their generosity through food. My grandmother always wanted to feed anyone who came into our home. She would cook extra portions and not eat to make sure everyone else was fed. She was willing to risk her own health for the benefit of others.
Greek food, not only Pastitsio, holds a great significance in my life. I remember growing up as one of the very few Greek children in Las Cruces. Being Greek made me feel unique. In Elementary school, my lunches would stand out from my classmates’. Many of my friends and classmates would ask what I was eating. I explained each food to them. The majority of those who tried the food enjoyed it. Others saw it as too strange.
When I cook, I do not see myself as a victim of patriarchy. I see cooking Pastitsio and other dishes as independence. Learning to cook for myself broke me away from depending on others to feed me; family and restaurants. I learned to cook for myself; not for a future spouse or future children. I prefer being an adult over a dependent child. The key to being a modern woman and feminist is independence. Cooking is a form of independence and a sign of maturity. I am an independent Greek-Cypriot American woman.
Pastitsio and other Greek food will always be a part of my life. Food holds the memory of my grandmother and my visits to Greece and Cyprus. What I regret is not paying attention to how my grandmother prepared each meal. If we cooked together, we would have had a closer relationship.
Both pictures by: Nonis Herness Granados
Article by: Eleni Philippou