Learning Curves: The problem with plus-size shopping

Ladies, welcome. If you’re here, let me presume you are a plus-size woman living in an average world. Like me, you must be frustrated with the perpetually out-of-stock, the full stop that accompanies the XL and shapeless online atrocities. Don’t worry, my gorgeous plus-size babes, I’m here to help.

First, I want to address the elephant in the room: terminology. Ever heard of #DropThePlus? If you haven’t, the hashtag originated from Australian model Stefania Ferrario in an effort to remove the ‘plus’ from the fashion industry. Current plus-size rhetoric implies that if your body is above a certain number, it follows that you are ‘bigger than normal’. For women like Ferrario and Ajay Rochester – another model fronting the #droptheplus movement – labelling a woman’s body as ‘plus-size’ is dehumanising. Perhaps you have noticed the altenate term ‘curvy’ circulating the internet? As of now, there are still only two recognised terms for women above a certain size: Plus-size and Curvy, both of which are in contention. The movement itself is refreshing and aims to dismantle the alienation or ‘othering’ of curvy women in the fashion industry. Surprisingly, the majority of women when polled were happy with the terms Plus and Curvy so, until there are more inclusive alternatives, for the purpose of this article I’ll be interchanging between the two.

Let’s talk retail therapy. Have you ever looked murderously into the windows of mainstream retailers like Topshop and Urban Outfitters, or cringed as you reach the last piece on a rack only to find it ends at a size 12? I have, and I’m angry about it. I like to think of myself as a confident and unflappable force of nature, one of the first to step forward in defence and acceptance of plus-size bodies, but there are many times I feel defeated by the ruthless nature of fashion. Hot high-street retailers may sell gorgeously daring and fashion-forward attire, but their cut-off point is a size 16 at best. For women like me, whose measurements hover between standard 16 and plus-size 18, this can be incredibly frustrating. For women who occupy delicious sizes 20 through 30, this is an absolute outrage. Don’t worry, sisters, I understand your pain.

Here’s the good news. Online shopping is at an all-time high. With the expansion and success of online retailing, more companies are extending their ranges to include us ‘plus’ women, and there are many retailers that are exclusively ‘curvy’ (ASOS, Simply Be, Boohoo). This means never again having to struggle in a dressing-room, trying desperately to remove a dress without tearing it. Say goodbye to tight-lipped shop attendants and trying to remove make-up smears on collars, because now you have the world of fashion at your fingertips – Right? Wrong. Because with plus-size clothing comes a world of problems. You’ll notice that shop floors never seem to have in stock the sizes they claim are on offer – are you as tired as I am of hearing ‘We could order it for you online?’ – and when you browse through their online collections, the number of items available drops dramatically when you filter to your size. If you don’t believe me, filter a size 16 on Topshop’s online store. Go on, have a gander.

In practice, online shopping for plus-size women often ends in disappointment. Here’s the problem: women come in all shapes and sizes. Retail giants like ASOS are under the illusion that all women have the classic hourglass figure – an issue also relevant to all my average-size banana or apple babes out there, we feel you – and they make money because we buy into this ideal for lack of another choice. There is no range for the apple, the triangle or the diamond. Fat is distributed diversely. Never is this made more apparent for me, as when I order or try on trousers; they are perpetually too tight around the hips and too loose around the legs because I am an Apple. And as envious as I am about women who have delightfully large bottoms, my Pear or Butternut Squash sisters, I can imagine your problems will lie with loose waists and too-tight legs. In the world of online fashion, unless you are an hourglass goddess, you will be hard pushed to find the perfect fit online, especially if you are plus-size.

Now, let me share with you a little secret. A few years ago I took a leap of faith and bought a jacket that was too small in the arms. In a moment of anger and desperation, I decided I would become a seamstress overnight and adjust the jacket myself. As I passed through Berwick Street, London’s famous Haberdasher’s haven, I went into a dry cleaner and asked to see their seamstress. Upon raging about the injustices of the fashion industry, she agreed to adjust the arms for a fiver. It took less than a minute for her to take my measurements, and as a bonus she adjusted the buttons free of charge. In that moment, everything changed. I no longer fear shopping on the high-street because I know I can adjust anything I want. Girls, take those gorgeous trousers you’ve been mooning over to a local dry cleaner and ask them to adjust it. I promise you, it’ll change everything.

So, while it’s true that more brands are extending their lines to include plus women, it is clear that there remains much room for improvement. Our bodies are our temples and we should not be made to feel dehumanised or alienated from the ‘norm’ simply because our bodies deviate from the socially acceptable. This is 2017 and we deserve to be recognised and celebrated in all our glorious shapes and sizes. To all you plus size goddesses out there, know that you are certainly not alone in your struggles. I will continue to hunt for the perfect fit, and I promise to let you know all the juicy details once I’ve found it. 

• curves
• fashion
• KCL
• london
• plus size