In the past couple of weeks, the fashion world lived through the epitome of haute couture in the last Spring/Summer 24 Fashion Weeks – that occurred in London, Milan, Paris and, obviously, New York. From impressive draped gowns seen in the Givenchy shows to the iconic metallic pieces that ruled the runways, it seemed as if there was a new fashion trend to look over in every direction. However, there was one fashion show in particular that surprised fashionists online, due to its simplicity and overall distant energy from the accustomed extravagance of the event, Versace’s Spring/Summer 2024 prêt-à-porter collection presented in Milan Fashion Week.
Versace’s recent pieces followed a more mature and elegant outline, which Donatella Versace has described as fresh and contemporary, following a similar guideline as to the label’s 90’s collections. The designer followed a recent fashion tendency, known as Quiet Luxury, which you may remember from Sophia Richie’s feminine and simplified street wear, and even in her own wedding gown. However, it is so much more than just an absence of extravagance, it’s about class and, in some way, an atemporal look. Understand more about the trend and the luxury behind it:
What is quiet luxury?
When reflecting about Fashion Week and haute couture, our minds inevitably imagine extravagance and, in a way, pieces that aren’t made for the usual day to day lifestyle. One example is the trompe-l’oeil dress presented by Leann Huang, created with what seemed to be a collection of post-it notes with eyes that envisioned an optical illusion of them blinking, or even the complex and nostalgic gown presented in Sarah Burton’s farewell show from Alexander McQueen. Quiet Luxury, however, is on the opposite side of this picture.
In a world hostage to social media’s response, fashion shows are made to be a certain spectacle on the internet and people wear more logos than clothes. The trend seems to be an outrageous response to the fashion world, and a comeback of wearable, yet still luxurious pieces. Quiet Luxury privileges the use of couturier minimalist pieces, in opposition to the usual maximalism presented by maisóns in fashion seasons. Therefore, without the overused extravagance, only a well-trained fashion eye would notice that the piece is part of a haute couture collection.
Although it has recently become a trend between fashion girlies, its origins are marked by France in the 18th century and the Gilded Age of the United States in the 19th century. Maisóns like Versace are daring to break with the constant and overused logomaniac that society expects, like Gucci’s constant logo print in their collection, attempting to connect to rich customers that are looking for quality over a name.
And why are these huge fashion names daring to come back to the quiet luxury all of a sudden? Prada bags, Fendi sets and Balenciaga sneakers are examples of the recent success of logo items. Along with this came the manufacturing of fake products that come almost close to perfection, devaluating the actual name of the brand. Therefore, it isn’t only about class and minimalism, it is about re-establishing the power and, in a way, inaccessibility of the high fashion brands.
In addition to the elegant and defined finish, excellent quality materials and sophistication, they are timeless, discrete pieces that convey an idea of a classicist tradition. There are little to no accessories and no mention of brands, as the main characteristic is the rejection of explicit ostentation, which means that visible logos and labels are out of the question! In the recent re-adaption of the fashion style, extravagant prints – such as tigered, flowery or animal – are out of the picture. Which in recent runways seems to be an odd move, however, we do see a bit of the traditional prints, as checkered, poá, pied poule, and prioritizing fewer contrasting tones. The colors are always sober, such as navy blue, tan, moss green, burgundy, black and, of course, gray.
In quiet luxury, instead of “screaming” when worn, clothes whisper a more secret and initiated glamour and avant-garde, which makes more sense for those who are wearing it than for the rest of the world.
the problematic behind it
Although it isn’t a new trend, at least not in the classic maisóns, quiet luxury seems to gain a lot of fashion lovers’ hearts, as well as a lot of backlashes! Scholars suspect that the rise of quiet luxury was influenced by the recent historical context involving the Covid-19 pandemic, war and high inflation, which caused society to have a huge economic recession. Given this, people belonging to the highest classes of society, despite not having been affected by the crises, adopted the tendency to avoid displaying their wealth in a tough financial moment.
The backlash revolves around the argument that the trend has become an elitist style, due to the fact that in order to make a part of it, we need luxurious and expensive items, accessible to a privileged group. Therefore, its prime characteristic is being inaccessible, marginalizing once more the sense of fashion and a Eurocentric view.
MILAN FASHION WEEK: VERSACE SPRING SUMMER 24
It’s time to talk about Versace’s most recent collection. The runway was taken by light and pastel tones in the vast majority of the pieces, besides having a clear preference for silky fabrics – which are a tendency in the fashion market. Most of the pieces brought back the miniskirts and shorts concept, aligned with delicate blazers and dresses with little to no prints.
Kendall Jenner first appeared in a duchesse mini white dress with an embroidered necklace, paired with a metallic leather Gianni Ribbon a pair of ballerina flats – yes, they are back – and a Medusa 95’ tote bag. The look expresses luxury, and in a way even reminds us of a classic Chanel vibe. The maisón did use prints, but Donatella followed the quiet luxury rules and used checkered patterns, like the one used by Diane Chiu, who wore a checkerboard double silk duchesse jacquard jacket with rounded couture shoulder and crystal neckline details, in a pastel yellow. She also used a matching pencil skirt and open toe boots.
The most iconic part of the show – which took over social media – was the moment when Emma Menne, Tess Breeden and Ella walked side by side in the same pattern, with pastel colors.
————————–
The article above was edited by Larissa Buzon.
Liked this type of content? Check Her Campus Cásper Líbero home page for more.