Since the Medieval period, the Catholic Church has been known for its power among the religious in both political and cultural ways. But while the peasants were working long hours and starving to death, the church showed its power and wealthiness through gothic constructions and extravagant material possessions, which in the future led to the establishment of papal fashion.
The Pope is the leader of the Roman Catholic Church, in a role that has existed for roughly 2,000 years. In the last 20 years, two different Popes held the papacy, but each one of them had its characteristics, especially when it comes to their papal dressings. Since they have a specific dress code, but very different ways of getting dressed, every piece of clothing they wear gives the kind of message they want to pass to those who follows them.
The April 2005 papal conclave elected Benedict XVI. His papacy was filled with scandals about corruption in the Vatican Bank and sexual abuse inside the Catholic Church. On the other hand, Benedict is also known for his choices of clothing and how he would portray himself in front of the devotees.
Right in the beginning of his papacy, Benedict hired a specialists in religious luxury clothing, Raniero Mancinelli. The pontiff liked precious wools and silks, and one of the requests for his clothing was for thicker fabrics. Based on his doctrine, his choices of papal clothing were more “extravagant” and fashionable, showing gold and embroidery since he desired to recapture the Church’s traditional liturgy, and that goes hand in hand with what he wore as Pope.
In one of his first public appearances as head of the Church, Benedict XVI chose to wear the so-called camauro, a fur-trimmed hat in the rich red color of a Santa hat, making a direct reference to Benedict XIV. Another item of clothing that was already seen in other Popes was the red shoes, which later made people start to think they were Prada’s.
The Vatican denied it, saying that “The pope is not dressed by Prada but by Christ”. Papal rings, diamond, sapphire and ruby pectoral crosses, the all-important golden mitres were always present in Benedict outfits.
Right after his resignation, another papal conclave was performed, and Pope Francis was elected to lead the Catholic Church. His chosen name was the first thing that represented his papacy, since Francis of Assisi dedicated his life to poverty and his simplicity, and Pope Francis tried his best to keep that image, contrasting a lot with his ancestor.
In Francis’ first appearance, he chose to appear to the devotees wearing his traditional white cassocks, with white representing purity and charity. He quickly became known for his simple, often unadorned regalia, in contrast to his predecessor. Complementing his papal clothes, is the white zucchetto, the small skullcap that signifies his rank in the Church. Pope Francis was known for his humility and simplicity, often choosing a plain silver cross and black shoes, not so common for Popes.
Additionally, Pope Francis has worked to increase transparency within the Vatican, pushing for financial reforms and addressing long-standing issues related to clerical abuse. These actions reflect his broader mission to align the Church more closely with values of humility, service, and accountability.
A new beginning in the Catholic Church: Pope Leo XIV
Last week, we witnessed a new beginning in the Catholic Church, as the American Robert Prevost was elected Pope and became the first North American to hold the role. Yet, the legacy of Benedict and Francis—especially through their distinct clothing styles—will continue to influence the image and expectations of the papacy.
As Pope Leo XIV steps into this historic position, the choices he makes in how he presents himself, even in his attire, will communicate his values and priorities to Catholics around the world. In this way, papal clothing remains not just tradition, but a powerful symbol of leadership, humility, and spiritual identity.
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The article above was edited by Isadora Mangueira.
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