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Brown | Style

Breaking Down the Boho Trend at Brown: Isabel Marant, Cultural Appropriation, and the Ethics of Fashion

Cassandra Coleman Student Contributor, Brown University
This article is written by a student writer from the Her Campus at Brown chapter and does not reflect the views of Her Campus.

Remember the leather fringe and the crochet frills of the mid-2010s? It’s back. Boho chic has once again made its way to center stage on the runways, onto the front covers of Vogue, and trickled down into the niche fashion world on TikTok. 

At Brown, it seems like every other student is wearing flowy maxi skirts, brown suede, Western-inspired boots, sheer lace– the list goes on. There is a clear mix of classic vintage and soft femininity. In clothing, jewelry, and tote bags, the boho trend is thriving. And Brown has eagerly welcomed its resurgence with open arms. 

Where is it coming from? Why is the trend coming back now? Why is Isabel Marant at the center of it all? Let’s break it down.

Boho is Back for 2025

The boho aesthetic was center-stage at the 2024 Paris Fashion Week shows.  The runways were filled with flowy silhouettes, earthy tones, and artisanal textures, marking a return to the free-spirited aesthetic that defined the early 2000s and made a mainstream resurgence in the mid-2010s. However, today’s take on boho is noticeably pared down. Gone are the heavily layered looks and excessive fringe—designers are embracing a more streamlined, effortless approach.

Fashion critic Hunter Shires notes in Vogue that the resurgence of boho is more minimalistic this time around which “reflects a desire for uncomplication, familiarity, and nostalgia”. This shift speaks to a broader movement in fashion toward wearable, timeless pieces that balance self-expression with everyday ease. Perhaps the shift is an economic consequence of lower disposable incomes or an inclination towards simplicity in an otherwise politically and socially hectic world.

What is clear is that brands Chloé and Isabel Marant are leading the charge. These brands have mastered blending boho’s signature free-spirited charm with modern times’ minimalism and timeless taste. Their influence has already hit the streets– welcome to an era of flowy maxi skirts, western boots, and suede galore.

The Resurgence of Isabel Marant

Who is Isabel Marant? Simply put, she’s a fashion killa. Isabel Marant has become synonymous with that free-spirited Parisian style you so often see models wearing off-duty. The New York Times Reports, Marant always had a “preference for eye-catching pieces that exude a sense of bohemian nonchalance”, a taste the Yves Saint Laurent of her upbringing never captured. So in 1994, Marant founded her self-titled label launching her into fashion iconism. 

In Bazaar, Marant explains “Boho is about a woman who travels and picks things up along the way, mixing and matching. She knows her tastes… it’s about freedom.”. This free-spirited philosophy is exactly what’s driving boho’s return in 2025, but with a fresh, intentional approach that resonates with today’s fashion landscape.

So, why are people talking about Marant now? Simply put, boho doesn’t quit– and neither does Isabel Marant. Her designs have long embodied the effortless, globe-trotting aesthetic that defines boho style, and as the trend evolves, she continues to adapt while staying true to its essence. Her latest collections strike the perfect balance between relaxed and refined, proving that boho isn’t just a fleeting revival—it’s a timeless statement of individuality and self-expression.

Since When Is French Bohemian? The Cultural Appropriation Critique

Where does boho or bohemian come from? The style emerged in France during the 1960s around the time when protest and counterculture became trendy for historically privileged people.

The root of the style takes inspiration from the Romani people, otherwise known as the Gispy people (an outdated and racist name we no longer use). “Bohemian” wasn’t always a compliment. The word “bohemian” in French originated as a pejorative term for the Romani people who found refuge in France starting in the 15th century. Their lifestyle embodied free living; they were artists, writers, and actors not tied down to rules or social norms.

While the Romani style is celebrated now, the Romani people faced a devastating history of discrimination and oppression. Originally migrating from northern India around a thousand years ago, they were met with hostility and exclusion in many societies. This systemic persecution culminated in the Holocaust, where an estimated 250,000 to 500,000 Romani people were murdered by the Nazis in what is known as the Porajmos. In the late 20th and 21st centuries, Roma communities have continued to experience widespread marginalization, from segregation in education and housing to violent hate crimes and institutional racism. Even today, Roma people face barriers to employment, systemic poverty, and forced evictions, perpetuating cycles of exclusion and oppression.

Today the Boho style is celebrated in fashion. Yet, the Romani people are victims of the fashion 

industry. While France and Italy profit off of the traditional Romani style, the governments are demanding the Roma people leave their countries. In France, authorities have repeatedly dismantled Roma encampments, forcing families into unstable conditions with little regard for their well-being. Similarly, in Italy, political rhetoric often paints Romani people as a societal problem, leading to increased hostility and policies aimed at restricting their presence. Adding to this injustice, Europe’s thrown-out clothes are dumped into Romania turning parts of the country into landfills for Western overconsumption. 

Whether the Boho trend is cultural appropriation is up to debate, but there is no denying that the Romani people who inspired the fashion trend are subjugated and exploited by the nations profiting most from their culture.

What Does This Mean For Brown Students?

Everyone knows Brown is a cultural center for indie fashion. Whether their clothes are thrifted or straight off the runway, students from every walk of life celebrate individualism in their personal style. 

Hello, Spring Weekend fashion predictions. Boho chic in the 2010s was the pinnacle aesthetic for Music Festivals. We can give a polite nod to Kendall Jenner’s 2016 Coachella looks and a more enthusiastic applause for Kate Moss through the years. We can expect this Spring’s fashion at Brown to be no exception to the boho revival.

If you’ve already started planning your Spring wardrobe, here’s what I think you should include:

  • Neutral and earthy tones
  • Brown suede jackets
  • White flowy dresses
  • Statement jewelry (layered and beaded necklaces, chain/disc belts)
  • Paisley, floral, geometric patterns
  • Wide leg pants
  • Linen and lace fabrics

While you’re shopping please remember the history of “bohemian”. Take up the responsibility to source your clothing through ethical sources. You can do this no matter your budget: thrift, borrow, research your go-to clothing brands. Be conscious of where your style comes from and how it affects the people of our world.

Cassandra is a junior at Brown University studying Political Science and Economics. She belongs to Kappa Delta Sorority and is a member of Ivy Film Festival's Business and DEI teams. In her free time Cassandra enjoys getting a sweet treat with friends, reading thriller novels, and watching the Kardashians.