Wearing cotton (organic, to be precise) appears to be the internet’s latest wellness obsession. My Pinterest feed is abundant with images of white sheets billowing in the breeze of some distant Tuscan balcony and visions of women in crisp cotton dresses frolicking through the idyllic English countryside. Katie Robinson gives an apt name to this aesthetic: ‘Anti-Polyester Girl Summer.’
Robinson attributes this phenomenon to growing ‘trend fatigue and declining fashion quality,’ which has caused consumers to overlook the ‘style of clothes we’re wearing’ and instead focus on ‘what they’re made from.’ Wearing natural, high-quality fibres that have a lifespan longer than any 2020s micro-trend does serve as an appealing counterpoint to a culture of disposable fashion. However, the ‘anti-polyester’ sentiment has more complex origins.
Replacing synthetic fibres with natural alternatives reminds me of another recent wellness trend: the demonisation of ultra-processed foods and the subsequent turn towards a more whole-foods-based diet. As one Substack writer notes, ‘attention is being turned beyond what we put in our bodies, to what we put on our bodies.’ In both cases, the natural, purer alternative is hailed as the healthier and somehow more ‘respectable’ option. In my view, this retreat from modernity into an untouched, idealised past is symptomatic of our increasing anxiety about the future.
Take the climate crisis, for instance. According to BBC Weather, summer 2026 was the UK’s hottest on record. There were five widespread heatwaves, and drought was declared in ‘all of Wales and more than two-thirds of England.’ For Robinson, these increasing temperatures led to rising anxieties about ‘toxic’ clothing and the impact that synthetic materials may potentially have on our health. While this connection may initially appear obscure, Holly McHugh explains that synthetic fibres including ‘spandex, nylon, or polyester’ can be treated with chemicals known as ‘endocrine disruptors’ (EDCs). The release of these substances, she notes, may increase when the body sweats, ‘potentially allowing them to enter the body and disrupt hormone function.’ While these concerns first centred on workout clothes, Robinson suggests that rising temperatures have extended this anxiety across our entire wardrobes.
This anxiety is evident in posts online, with one TikTok user binning all of her plastic activewear whilst labelling Alo Yoga and Lululemon clothing as ‘toxic.’ Natural fibres, meanwhile, have been branded as ‘chic’ or ‘cool,’ with Instagram posts promoting natural-fibre clothing being captioned with the likes of ‘#pinterestoutfits.’ This post, for instance, is titled ‘natural fibre clothing brands that all the “it” girls are wearing.’ There is something ironic about a trend prompted partly by the climate crisis, and apparently concerned with promoting slow fashion, encouraging such rapid overconsumption.
Additionally, as Robinson identifies, recent discussions surrounding natural fibre clothing have often neglected environmental considerations entirely. While our health is obviously an important issue, it’s crucial to remember that polyester’s ‘production process is energy-intensive’ and generates high amounts of CO2, according to Green Match. In contrast, as the Soil Association points out, certified organic cotton helps to ‘combat climate change’ by using ‘natural methods’ rather than ‘fossil-fuel-based fertilisers.’ These statistics make the environmental appeal of organic cotton clear; yet they also highlight that the binary between natural and synthetic fibres is not entirely clear-cut.
The brand CouCou Intimates, for example, claims that the ‘global warming potential’ of organic cotton is 46% less than conventional cotton and uses 91% less water. While this statistic is aimed at promoting their own materials, it also clarifies that natural is not always synonymous with sustainable. If making the switch from synthetic to natural fibres, it’s important to remember the environmental side too, rather than jumping headfirst into another potential fashion trend. You can check if the cotton you are buying is organic and sustainable through the OEKO-TEX certification label.
That said, health concerns surrounding synthetic clothing are becoming increasingly difficult to ignore. One Guardian article discusses a lawsuit filed against period-underwear brand Thinx, which marketed its products as ‘organic, sustainable, and non-toxic,’ despite allegations that they contained harmful ‘forever chemicals.’ Similar accusations have been levelled against Lululemon for misleading customers about the ‘safety, quality, and health impacts of its products.’ Yet, once again, it’s important to acknowledge that synthetic is not synonymous with toxic. While Kate Cray notes that ‘worries about plastic-based clothing do have some basis,’ she also points out that the ‘potential dangers of wearing synthetic materials are less immediate and harder to quantify.’ Rather than avoiding synthetic fabrics entirely, she suggests that limiting them is a more realistic, affordable alternative.
It’s clear that discussions around natural and synthetic fibres are valid, but it’s equally important to remember that they’re highly nuanced. It’s crucial to approach this issue with discernment, and to conduct your own research before ridding your wardrobe of all its synthetic garments in favour of new, organic cotton replacements. Making the switch to natural fibres at a slower, more considered pace might be the best option. When your old clothes wear out, perhaps you could then find a more natural, sustainable alternative, rather than replacing your whole wardrobe in one panic-induced, trend-fuelled shopping spree.
However, as always, fashion is a matter of individual self-expression; it is important to wear what makes you feel comfortable and confident, while keeping issues like this one in perspective.