The Natural Hair Movement has ebbed and flowed from its origins in the 1960s to the 2010s and now the present day. The establishment of the CROWN Act in 2019 was the biggest accomplishment of the movement. In tune with such progression, one would think the discourse surrounding the movement would have died down. But the conversation around Black women’s hair still continues to grow and change in relation to certain hair trends. Questions like, “What does it mean when you never wear your natural hair out?” and “Do we hold Black women to higher standards when it comes to their hair compared to other races?” cycle through social media posts, comments, and even in real-life conversations.
Wigs have grown in popularity from 2012 to now, but they also were popular during the Harlem Renaissance. Wearing wigs has been used as a form of rebellion self-expression for Black Women. Now, modern wigs are made with different colors, hair patterns, and ways of application. The evolution of wigs has increased Black women’s interest. This, in turn, led wigs to become a new trend in Black hair culture. The trend then formed a tension between the natural hair community and Black women who prefer to wear wigs or weaves.
The natural hair community has made efforts to question the reliance of wigs: if Black women are willing to put effort in their wigs, why not also into taking care of their natural hair? Some express that a lack of care for natural hair is a sign of insecurity or self-hatred. Black women’s relationship with their hair does not exist in a vacuum. Black women’s lack of care for their natural hair stems from racist and misogynistic systems that view Black hair as “too much.” The ultimate way to fight against these systems is not necessarily to reject wigs and weaves altogether, but rather by embracing our natural hair and making time to learn how to care for it.
Other Black women have countered the natural hair community’s points on attitudes towards wigs. Some view wigs as self-expression, similarly to Black women in the Harlem Renaissance. Black women should be free to wear their hair how they want to without judgement. They believe a Black woman’s relationship with her hair cannot be inherently determined by how often she wears her natural hair out. In addition, they feel that the natural hair community works to shame Black women into the natural hair journey rather than encourage them. Black women are already judged for their hair, no matter if it’s natural, straight, braided, etc. Should the natural hair community add to these judgments and assumptions that are already prevalent in our society? Why is there more pressure for Black women to go natural in comparison to other racial communities?Â
Both points of view hold valid concerns. Black women’s relationship with their hair does not exist in a vacuum and is affected by the pressure to assimilate into white beauty standards. However, there is an overcritical attitude towards Black women’s hair. We can’t simplify a Black woman’s connection to her hair by how much she wears it naturally. It’s important to remember that hair is a part of culture and an accessory. These two realities don’t have to work against each other. We should embrace the multiple roles hair plays in our society. It may be of more benefit to have conversations centered on a genuine relationship with hair.
There’s space for reflection if you view your natural hair as too difficult or ugly. There’s also space to acknowledge how the negative narrative towards Black hair can discourage women from going natural. Unlearning these internalized narratives takes time and should be handled with empathy for these women. There may never be a clean, easy answer to the discussion of the rights and wrongs of Black women’s hair. Maybe there’s no need for an answer to the discussion. Rather, an awareness of the humanity of Black women and how they navigated a society built against them.