By Amie Yansane
On Sept. 28, 2006, the comedy-drama TV show Ugly Betty premiered on ABC, drawing 16 million viewers in its pilot episode. The show went on to run for four full seasons and maintain a legacy in pop culture nearly 20 years after its debut.Â
The series follows the life of Betty Suarez, a 22-year-old recent college graduate working at the glamorous yet toxic Mode magazine. Although Betty is one of the sweetest and most genuine characters in TV history, she faces racism, classism and fatphobia in the workplace. Much of this discrimination is based on her physical appearance, as Betty is a Mexican American woman in a predominantly white space. However, some of the racial attacks she experiences are not directed at her body but rather at something deeply tied to culture and experience— food.Â
Tamales, empanadas and flan— all staples of Betty’s heritage— receive negative comments throughout the show, whether about their smell, cultural origins or associations with social class. These comments reflect the real-world bigotry that persists today.Â
Food Politics in the ShowÂ
Let’s set things straight: Whether widely acknowledged or not, food is inherently political. In a society where food prices are constantly climbing and debates continue over who deserves access to affordable meals, food will always be a political issue. It also serves as a major social indicator, reflecting race and class, both of which frequently surface in political discourse.Â
One of the biggest symbols of food politics in the show is a simple kitchen appliance— a refrigerator.Â
It always struck me as odd that Wilhelmina Slater, one of the wealthiest characters in the show, had a nearly empty fridge. Despite this, she never lacked access to food. Even though her refrigerator contained little, it likely held high-end products worth hundreds of dollars— unattainable to the average person. Beyond her barren fridge, Wilhelmina had the luxury of dining at exclusive restaurants whenever she pleased. Betty’s family, on the other hand, always had a fridge full of nourishing food. But in her case, this food was accessible to lower- and middle-class households— something Wilhelmina would likely dismiss.Â
This contrast exemplifies the politics of food. Wilhelmina can have an empty fridge and still thrive financially, while Betty, despite having plenty of food at home, struggles to help her family pay rent. It’s a narrative that remains relevant today, especially with the rise of food as a status symbol. Remember when Vogue Business claimed that Gen Z’s latest must-have accessory isn’t handbags but rather $20 Erewhon “skin” smoothies? As insensitive as it may be, it’s true.Â
Although Wilhelmina doesn’t flaunt an overpriced smoothie at Mode, her empty fridge speaks volumes about the way food—or the lack of it—signals wealth.Â
As controversial as Ugly Betty may be, I encourage you all to watch it and join me in exploring the fascinating, and sometimes absurd, politics of food.Â