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Rick Owens S/S 2014 Show Challenges Fashion Industry Conventions

The discussion about diversity on the runway has become increasingly relevant this fashion month, as just prior to New York Fashion week, former model and fashion activist Bethann Hardison sent out four letters  on behalf of the Diversity Coalition to the governing bodies of all four fashion week locations (New York, London, Paris and Milan).

The letter stated, “Eyes are on an industry that season after season watches fashion design houses consistently use one or no models of color.” The letter singled out designers Hardison considered guilty of the “racist act,” including BCBG Max Azria, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs and Monique Lhuillier, to name a few.  After the letter went public, Rag & Bone featured eight models of color, while Calvin Klein, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, and Narciso Rodriguez all featured six. 


However, the Rick Owens Spring 2014 show in Paris not only tackled the issue of diversity by featuring a cast of almost entirely African American models, but also challenged the fashion industry’s traditional values with respect to the size and uniformity of models as well as  the methods of displaying designer collections. 


Over the past five months, Owens recruited stepping teams from the United States to develop a synchronized statement performance in which he sought to achieve “a cross of elegance and roughness.” 

Forty models of different shapes and sizes “stepped” onto the runway in a literal sense, all wearing sneakers and clothing that veered away from Owens’s signature wrapped pieces, adjusted to enable motion through the addition of laces, slits and zippers.

He explained his goal of “rejecting conventional beauty,” by “creating our own beauty,” in an innovative way — which we hope may serve as inspiration for other designers to challenge the conventions of the fashion industry. 

Allie Sutherland is an Architecture Student and Alpha Phi sister in the Syracuse University class of 2015.
http://alliesutherland.com/