Explore the unique yet timeless collection history of of the house of Betsey Johnson. I’ve hyperlinked lots of my great runway looks throughout, so make sure to click em!
High fashion is full of unwritten rules. There are patterns never to be mixed, traditions never to be broken, statements never to be said… unless you’re Betsey Johnson. Some credit her with bringing the alternative to couture; others say she’s just “too much.” These critics fail to see that beneath all the glitter and tulle, Johnson’s collections are deeply artistic. Betsey Johnson’s magic lies in an unexpected fusion of alternative subcultures, femininity, camp and sisterhood. Think of her as the ‘American Vivienne Westwood.’ Both fashion houses channel the post-punk 80s aesthetic from when they were established. However, BJ’s provocative yet kitschy designs are undoubtedly American. Beyond its fabulous looks, the house of Betsey Johnson has used its platform for good, endured changing trends, and outfitted countless fabulous weirdos (myself included) along the way.
In 1965, Betsey Johnson was spending her mid-20s designing clothes for Manhattan boutiques, musicians like the Velvet Underground and indie films. She lived for art and youthquake. The movement was all about looking to youth culture (music, art film) for fashion inspiration, not the same old legacy brands. When Johnson established her own label in the late 70s, she channeled youthquake straight into it. Her ‘pretty & punk’ collections combined two opposite extremes: the hyper-feminine and new wave/post-punk styles all the rage in the 80s. The clothes had petticoats, tutus, neon, animal prints, fishnets and leather. Word spread about Betsey Johnson and her wild runways. There’d be barefoot models, bold makeup, confetti, and a now-signature sendoff from Betsey herself. For decades she’d cartwheel into a split, then wave goodbye to the audience with a cheeky grin. The whole spectacle was a breath of fresh air for fashion. Johnson wasn’t just another stuffy designer brand- she was here to have some fun.
By the 1990s the the world had moved on from the raw punk look, and BJ had moved with it. The brand was still combining femininity and the alternative, now channeling the “whimsigoth” aesthetic of the 90s. Collections featured muted colors, slips, sheer layers and velvet textures. To this day, one of the brand’s most iconic looks is this 1997 fall/winter collection velvet dress. It’s medieval and somewhat costume-y, but it’s also got this modern vampy twist- genius! I myself scored a velvet button-up from this era, and it is everything. Quality boning, lace-up details- my little jacket encapsulates the love and care that went into the old collections. Each piece had fabulous accents that made for a flattering fit.
The 2000s was all about formals for Betsey Johnson. These weren’t just any old prom dresses. They were adorned with voluminous tulle skirts, bright colours, bows, corsets, stoning and lots of playful details. Wearing a Y2K Betsey Johnson dress made it impossible to blend into the background. Picture high school me, scouring eBay for the perfect BJ mini to wear for homecoming. I found a low-waisted aqua blue minidress from 2004, covered in sequins. To keep things subtle, I paired it with a matching purse, pink pumps, and micro bangs. It might’ve looked a little crazy, but I felt fabulous in the kistchy glamor I was serving.
Betsey Johnson also expanded into shoes and accessories in the 2000s. “Betsyville”, one of the most popular lines, focused on a semi-ironic, Barbie-like charm. There were patent leather bags shaped like rotary phones, giant lip rings, and leopard print belts. In true Betsey fashion, it was campy and fabulous yet never obnoxious. My dad gave me a lot of Betsyville accessories as a kid. Unbeknownst to him, I was probably too young for couture jewelry, but I treasured each piece. I credit my dad for the early introduction to fashion (and for the big cartoony doll necklace with dangling limbs!).
Designs changed from year to year, but BJ remained punk as hell. Johnson also casted “models of different races and ages and sizes very early on … I did what I thought was gonna work and I never paid attention to the industry’s rules.” Employees have been known to walk the runway alongside models. Show commentary notes “any woman of any ethnicity, body shape, or height could feel beautiful—and loved in Betsey’s world.” In 2015, Johnson staged a bridal-themed runway titled “Pre Nup” for New York Fashion Week. Gay couples, transgender models, and drag performers walked the runway all in wedding attire. She described the theme as “straight brides, gay brides, transgender marriages, everybody getting married. Finally, freedom.” It was a bold move in 2015, when same sex marriage wasn’t even legal yet. An industry commentary piece listed her among few designers whose shows “comprised 20 % or more models of color.” Many brands have now followed suit, but Johnson’s casting practices were ahead of many other brands in the 2010s.
Today, the house of Betsey Johnson is a full-on lifestyle brand that sells anything and everything. The ownership and licensing changed, and designs (in my opinion) don’t have quite the spunk they used to. Still, the trademark always remains the same: “fun, female, flirty, with a bit of aggression.” As for me, I still search for vintage BJ every time I buy secondhand. I know every runway, every collection, and even how to identify the decade based on tags. Lately, I’ve found more people searching with me. Johnson’s impact on mall goth, Y2K, and alternative fashion is clear from the recent rise in bold designs and the resurfacing of her old runways. Many celebs, including Olivia Rodrigo, are popping up in vintage BJ formals.
In a culture that praises simplicity, Johnson’s “too muchness” feels radical in the best way. Betsey Johnson’s critics may describe her as “too much”; my critics may describe me the same way. Anyone who loves Betsey Johnson knows what it feels like to be a little bit loud and want a little bit more than “just enough.”