During this quarantine, I had an epiphany. I noticed that my curly, type 4 hair was losing its shine and definition. It was lackluster and dry, just resting on top of my head in the shape of a square; no real form to showcase the beauty that was hiding under all the dryness. This became a problem that I was determined to fix.
My hair is one of the things I love most about myself. It’s not only about the aesthetic aspect of it, though; beauty has a lot to do with it, but it’s much more than that. My hair defines me in a unique way and it is a symbol of my heritage. Therefore, I take pride in taking care of it with the patience and love that we curly-haired girls grow to acquire over the years. This is how my quarantine nightmare became my quarantine mission. I spent a lot of time searching for the problem, until I realized that I was using the same products, same routine, and same methods that I used when I began to transition from damaged, relaxed hair, to my natural mane.
Curly hair, especially type 4, needs a constant change in products, routine, and methods. It all depends on where you are in your natural process. The routine and products that worked wonders during your transition won’t work the same once you go full natural. It’s a process with different stages, and with each one, your hair grows and changes. It took me a while—a lot of quarantine time, to be precise—to acknowledge that. I immersed myself in research and learned new things about my hair that never crossed my mind. It was lovely to get to know it better now that it’s long and full of volume.
If you’re just beginning your transition from relaxed hair to your natural curls, I got you covered with an article that will help you a lot in this new yet challenging adventure. If you have the same problem as me and are dying to know how to fix it, read ahead. Your hair will revive after taking these tips! More definition, volume, shine, strength, and softness!
- Start shampooing
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Before we get into the shampooing process, there’s something important that you must know the answer to. Do you know your Wash Day? If not, it’s important that you choose one day of the week to dedicate to your hair. It must be a day you have completely free—no interruptions, no college assignments, no work. It’s just you and your hair sharing an intimate and necessary moment. Just one day, that’s all your hair asks of you. I’m adamant about this and can’t stress it enough because this is a long and tiresome process. Three to four hours are usually spent on it, if you do it right.
When shampooing your hair, massage your scalp using the buds of your fingers and create a foamy lather throughout it. Repeat the process three times, rinsing thoroughly with each wash. It’s important that you choose a shampoo wisely. Type 4 hair needs more care than other hair types, and most shampoos leave it dry and frizzy. You need a shampoo that doesn’t contain most of the chemicals that cause breakage, dryness, and frizziness: for example, sulfates, silicones, and parabens.
For us curly-haired girls, it’s so satisfying to find a shampoo that leaves our hair soft and manageable. During quarantine, I fell in love with Shea Moisture’s Curl & Shine Shampoo. This product revived my curls, quite literally. As its description states, it leaves my curls “vibrant, bouncy and healthy looking. Hair is smooth, soft, and silky feeling with a brilliant shine.” The results were immediate. I still can’t believe how soft it leaves my hair after each wash. What I found most fascinating about this product is that I could actually seep my fingers through my roots with no problem. It actually detangles the roots, which makes it easier for you once you have to really get in there with your brush and comb.
- Apply hair masque
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This process is also called deep conditioning, which substitutes the conditioner in a typical hair care routine.
After shampooing, divide your hair into six sections. There should be six cute buns on your head. For my hair, I use Shea Moisture’s Strengthen & Restore Treatment Masque, which doesn’t contain damaging chemicals. I place a generous amount of the creamy, brown product inside a plastic bowl and mix it with a plastic cap amount of 100% natural olive and avocado oil. The masque has an amazing aroma on its own, and both oils don’t inflict on its scent at all.
Proceed to apply the masque on each section. I take my sweet time with each one, applying the product from root to end and then detangling it with my fingers. The masque doesn’t only heal your curls, repair your hair and strengthen it, it also softens and gives it a layer of protection that allows you to detangle your hair in a safer way. There are two reasons why I finger detangle: 1) It’s not as intrusive as a comb or brush, so it won’t cause breakage; and 2) It leaves your hair manageable during the detangling process with a brush or comb.
After I disentangle a section, I divide it in half and do a hair twist. Proceed to do twists all over your head after applying the masque and finger detangling. There should be six in total, but you can do more if that’s what you like. Once you’re done with this process, put on a plastic cap. The twists help the hair retain moisture and keep it tangle-free. The plastic cap serves as a second-like layer of protection, even further retaining the moisture. Keep the masque for 15 minutes to half an hour. Take this time to shower, like I do. After the chosen time passes, rinse thoroughly.
- Detangle your hair… again
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After rinsing the masque off, divide your hair into four sections. This time, there should be four cute buns on your head. For my hair, I use Afro Love’s Curling Puree, which doesn’t contain any damaging chemicals. Take a very generous amount of the creamy white product and massage it onto each wet section of hair, taking your time with each one. With a big brush or a wide-tooth comb, detangle each section; I like to use both!
Comb your ends first, and then stroke from roots to ends. This way, the knots from your roots won’t get tangled with the ones in your ends. If both collided, it would be an absolute nightmare to brush your hair. A bigger knot would be made and nobody has the patience (or time!) for that. After I pass the big brush through my curls, I like to use the comb to search for any missing knots. Don’t rinse the product off once you’re done with your entire hair because this product works as a leave-in conditioner.
- Style your hair!
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Only you know what products work best to style your hair. After all, you’re the one who knows it best. All those arduous hours taking care of those flawless curls deserve a sweet resolution. Isn’t it amazing once you’re done and get to style your curls? Even more exhilarating is seeing the beautiful end result. It feels as though all the hard work pays off… even if you have to repeat the process once a week, every week, for the rest of your life.
For my hair, I use the LCOG method. LCOG stands for Leave-in Conditioner, Cream, Oil, and Gel. I divide my hair into six sections to apply each of the aforementioned products in an even manner. The Leave-in conditioner is applied to detangle my hair, so by this point in the process, it’s in my curls. Next, I use Shea Moisture’s Curl & Style Milk and apply it to each section, from roots to ends.This cream forms part of one of Shea Moisture’s collections; the same collection my shampoo is a part of. After applying the cream, I pump Shea Moisture’s 100% Pure Baobab Oil two times on my palm, rub them against one another until they’re both shiny, and apply it on my hair from roots to ends. As a finishing touch, I apply Garnier Fructis’ Pure Clean Styling Gel to each section, which is 98% naturally derived and has an extra strong hold of 3.
None of these products contain damaging chemicals, so they’re all safe for those beautiful curls. Everytime you apply these products, scrunch up your curls! This will give it volume and soften curls that might look scrunchy. Some people are skeptical about using gel on their natural hair, which is fine, however, there are gels designed to protect and, at the same time, style your curls. You just have to look hard for one, and if you’re starting somewhere, take a chance with Garnier Fructis’ Pure Clean Styling Gel!
The LCOG method will revive those beautiful curls, while also protecting them from the outside world. Hair is left shiny, bouncy, voluminous, defined, and soft!
- Wear a silk bonnet (optional)
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When you go to sleep, wear a silk bonnet or rest your head on a silk pillowcase. This is optional because not everyone likes to wear something on their head when they’re sleeping or they simply don’t like the material, but I think it’s necessary for the natural process. Wearing a silk bonnet while you sleep ensures that all the products that you’ve placed in your hair stay in it for a long time. This prevents dryness and breakage, which can be caused by the friction of your hair with the cotton material of your pillowcase. If the bonnet ensures that the products will stay in place, nurturing and protecting your hair, it means that your curls will look flawless for days to come. You just have to take your hair out of it every morning, shake your head a little bit, seep your fingers through it and separate curls to form more volume! No detangling for three to four days!
Taking the time to care for your hair is not only important, but a sign of self-love. Love for your heritage, your uniqueness, and a texture that has been historically criticized as unappealing by a racist mentality for centuries. Own those curls, show them off, don’t be ashamed of your natural texture! Your hair is not malo or messy, it’s beautiful, just like you.
The natural process is a struggle, but it’s a struggle that’s worth fighting for. There’s a beauty to it that can’t be compared to no other. I hope these little tips of mine help you with your ever-growing and ever-expanding journey to your natural curls—and most importantly, to yourself.