Black History Month is finally here. Besides being an occasion to commemorate the heroic lives of those lost by crimes of racism and discrimination, Black History Month is also the perfect opportunity to celebrate the black visionaries and creatives that have influenced fashion history. Whether it’s their artistic vision, their nonconformity towards an originally “white” haute couture culture (so deemed by the upper classes), or their willingness to persevere despite adversity or economic hardships, the following designers have proven to the world that fashion is for everyone, regardless of their skin tone; and that perseverance is key when it comes to making your dreams come true.
- Ann Lowe
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Ann Lowe, born in Alabama in 1898, was the first African American woman to become a world-renowned fashion designer. Her career began shortly after her mother/sewing teacher passed away suddenly, and Lowe was left to take on the family business as a seamstress. Soon after, her first project as a fully-fledged designer consisted of designing and producing four ballroom gowns for the First Lady of Alabama. Because these garments were so skillfully made, gaining her an unexpected amount of recognition, Lowe migrated to New York and subsequently enrolled in the S.T. Taylor Schoolーa “white” fashion institution that forced Lowe to be segregated from the rest of the academic community because of the color of her skin. Nevertheless, she promptly graduated in 1919. After concluding her studies, Lowe founded her very own store: Anne Lowe’s Gowns. This store garnered the immediate attention from the likes of Hollywood royalty and high class women, such as the Roosevelts, the Rockefellers, and even Jackie O. Her garments were known for delicate embroidery details, flower appliqués, and her heavy use of the trapunto technique.
- Willi Smith
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It’s true that the concept of streetwear, as we know it today, has evolved significantly ever since its conception in the mid-seventies. However, it’s important to give credit where credit is due. So, without further ado, it’s time to introduce the father of the hip-hop culture based streetwear: Willi Smith. This Philadelphia native expressed interest in fashion very early on in his childhood; creating original designs for Hollywood actress Elizabeth Taylor thanks to an internship his grandmother (a housekeeper for designer Arnold Scaasi) got him. Despite never having finished his degree in fashion at Parsons (NY), Willi soon created his own fashion line, WilliWear: “a brand that you would see everyone wearing on the street.”
Besides being known as an accessible brand in terms of pricing, WilliWears’s apparel was easily recognized for its combination of high-end tailoring with loungey sportswear. Smith was also known for being the first fashion designer to include both menswear and womenswear under the same label. He also won a myriad fashion awards and accolades for his brilliant work. Not only did he make astounding streetwear for the runway, but he also designed streetwear-inspired costumes for films and theatre. Among all the films he collaborated on, the most notable in his career include Spike Lee’s School Daze (1987) and choreographer Dianne McIntyre’s dance production The Lost Sun (1973).
- Patrick Kelly
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This Mississippi-born fashion designer rose to fame shortly after moving to Paris per a close friend’s (none other than renowned supermodel Pat Cleveland) suggestion. Once in Paris, Kelly became the first American fashion designer to be accepted into the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-porter, a highly prestigious fashion association. Despite this accolade, Kelly was struggling to get by as a freelancer for Paco Rabanne. It wasn’t until he became the first American designer to sell clothes in the Parisian boutique Victoire that he had a huge break in the global fashion industry. His garments were known for his use of bright prints and large buttons. His most memorable silhouette consisted of tight, curve-hugging shapes, such as his flamboyantly colored body-con dresses. The French press was tremendously eager at shining light upon this young designer’s artistry. Such was the hype, that Kelly soon began receiving commissions to dress celebrities like Lady Diana, model Grace Jones, and Madonna. All in all, Patrick Kelly credits the success of his legacy to his own personal interest in African culture (having studied this area during college), and his willingness to combat racism by reclaiming Blackness as a symbol of power.
- Olivier Rousteing
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Born in the city of Bordeaux, France, this young fashion designer has quickly risen to fame as one of the most important fashion figures of the 21st century. After finishing his fashion and design studies in the École Supérieure des Arts et Techniques de la Mode, Rousteing began working for the Italian haute couture fashion house Roberto Cavalli. He was soon promoted to the position of Creative Director of the brand’s womenswear division. After a couple of years, he left Cavalli to work as a women’s ready-to-wear designer for Balmain, where he had the opportunity to work as the creative director’s right hand man. In 2011, Rousteing took over the position, which he has maintained since.
Besides being a visionary designer, Rousteing is most known for being one of the first couture designers to rely on social media as a primary marketing medium. In fact, the success of his social media efforts made Balmain the first French fashion label to reach the million-follower mark on Instagram. His long list of celebrity clients and close friends include Kim Kardashian, Cara Delevigne, Jennifer Lopez, and Beyoncé.
- Kimora Lee Simmons
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Ever since her early teens, Kimora Lee Simmons knew she wanted to be a part of the fashion industry. She began modeling at age 13, gaining popularity as a muse for the fashion house of Chanel. After marrying the hip hop entrepreneur Russel Simmons, Kimora created a fashion line based off of her husband’s menswear brand, “Phat Farm.” Since its conception, her brand, Baby Phat, sought out to provide stylish young women affordable, streetwear-inspired outfits. Being biracial herself (half Asian, half African), Kimora pledged that Baby Phat’s clothing was indeed made for every woman, regardless of their racial heritage and body type. This early-2000s brand was made famous for its mini skirts, tube tops, low rise jeans, and bedazzled tops and bottoms (most of which featured the famous Baby Phat cat logo). Baby Phat was so successful, that Kimora actually became one of the first Black women to own a billionaire company. Nowadays, Baby Phat continues to launch new clothing and accessories under the management of Kimora’s two daughters.
Being a fashion designer has never been easy, especially if you belong to a minority that is often looked down upon by society, dragged down by stereotypes, or racially discriminated against. However much the previously-mentioned designers struggled to achieve success and land their gigs with A-list celebrities or top tier fashion houses, each and every one of their stories prove to us how determination and passion can go a long way. They also teach us that fashion has no race or gender. Let us celebrate their milestones, and never forget to honor the true origins of some of our favorite fashions, music styles and art forms. Happy Black History Month!