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UCLA | Culture

Women’s Fashion in Afghanistan: Then and Now

Defne Akkaya Student Contributor, University of California - Los Angeles
This article is written by a student writer from the Her Campus at UCLA chapter and does not reflect the views of Her Campus.

An outfit is worth a thousand words. There is a reason we gravitate so heavily towards the fashion world as women. Not only does fashion serve as a fun topic to bring up with your girlfriends, but also a form of self expression and a reflection of your community. Historically, even when women were silenced we could speak through our clothing. This resistance could be seen through women’s adoption of “pants wearing” in the mid 1800s. As time progressed so did women’s fashion, broadening horizons across the world, especially in Afghanistan. This vibrant nation took on fashion like no other, that is until the current regime took place. But the strong and beautiful women in Afghanistan prosper on, resisting through their fashion as the brave ladies of the 1850’s once did.

Although Afghanistan is composed of many ethnic groups and cultures, the traditional clothing often appears as long embroidered dresses, as well as scarves, shawls and regional head coverings. Moving towards the 70’s women’s fashion developed adopting the fashion of the time. At the time, Afghanistan was considered one of the most liberal middle eastern countries at the time. Images of Kabul reflect the trends of the western 70’s style clothing. Although women were not able to have the same freedoms as men, they experienced a freedom that allowed them to express themselves freely. This was of course, until the current regime put limits on Afghan women’s freedom.

Here’s a good article to understand more about women’s right in Afghanistan throughout history:

https://www.amnesty.org.uk/womens-rights-afghanistan-history

Unfortunately, in 1996 Afghanistan was overtaken by the Taliban. Women lost many of the freedoms they had experienced before. With constraints on education and even leaving the house. Fashion was confined to a burqa accompanied by a man. Although the Taliban was ousted in 2001, they returned to power in 2021. The women of Afghanistan are not just victims of this rule; however, protesting the mandatory hijab rule. The freedom to express themselves stays a major issue among women in Afghanistan today.

@malalafund

Two years ago, girls and women in Afghanistan were free to learn, work, hold leadership positions and live freely. Now the Taliban’s restrictions confine them to their homes. Malala gave the annual Nelson Mandela lecture in South Africa and spoke on Afghanistan’s gender apartheid and urged the world to take action. #letafghangirlslearn #afghanistan🇦🇫 #malala #malalafund

♬ original sound – Malala Fund
Malala speaks on Women’s Rights

” The Taliban have mad girlhood illegal” – Malala Yousafzai

Through observing the women in Afghanistan, we can see how fashion reflects the political climate of a nation. Whether under an authoritarian regime or a democratic nation, what we wear serves as a message to the world around us. If an outfit is worth a thousand words, the message that Afghanistan’s burqa displays is one of oppression and resistance by the Afghan women.

My name is Defne Akkaya. I am a first year student at ucla. I am pre-law, majoring in political science and economics.