As of this week, the temperature in Los Angeles has plummeted to a bone-chilling sub-seventy. The response from the campus community has been rapid and dramatic: the shorts and crop top uniforms of summer practically vanished overnight, and fits reminiscent of Balenciaga’s latest runway show have taken their place.
Balenciaga or Bruins? It’s impossible to say.
Despite the overwhelming scale of this transition, one can hardly ignore the mavericks who, either due to sheer stubbornness, a superhuman metabolism or (in the rarest cases) a lack of preparation, have soldiered on in flip flops and miniskirts. The choice is brave, but mark my words – Southern California’s deceptively sunny winters demand a solid pair of pants. When you realize that I’m right, my article and I will be here waiting. Now, whether you’re eager to start shopping or simply too entranced by my wit to exit this page (it happens), let’s begin. The first step to finding perfect pants is thinking about pants – in other words, narrowing the scope of your search. The criteria you set for buying will depend largely on the style you’re looking for, so I recommend pinpointing that first. Are you interested in jeans, and are you looking for basics or statement pieces? Do you want to try a structured pant, like a menswear-inspired trouser or corduroy flares? Or would you prefer a flowy style, like ribbed pants or cargos?
Once you have a style in mind, you can start your search in earnest. When I shop, I evaluate products by two criteria: quality and fit. I consider quality first, because any article of clothing, no matter how well it matches my measurements, is not worth buying if it lacks integrity or looks cheap. More than any other factor, fabric determines quality. 100% cotton is the ideal composition for pants, particularly more structured styles, because it holds its shape through wears, washes and scuffs. This is what gives vintage denim its characteristic stiffness, and makes it so flattering. Not a fan of the rigidity of pure cotton? A bit of stretch is fine, but try to avoid pants with more than 2% elastane. That would land you in the “jegging” region, which is probably best left in 2012.
Vintage denim is particularly flattering because of its dense, 100% cotton fabric composition.
The density of fabric matters almost as much as the composition. Thin cotton pants will flop around and stretch, while thick polyester can be surprisingly flattering. The fabric for a structured pant should feel “heavy” and maintain its form when folded.
If you do want a softer, flowy pant, then the weight of the fabric will determine its movement. A style should drape rather than cling, and this is best achieved by heavy fabrics. Flowy pants are more receptive to different materials than their rigid counterparts, but be aware that man-made materials like viscose and rayon are more prone to pilling and usually don’t wash well.
When you find a pair of pants that suits your taste and meets the standard of quality, evaluate it for fit. The waist should walk the fine line between baggy and constrictive, hugging you in and smoothing you out. Ideally, the waistband will lie flat; this ensures both comfort and a sleek silhouette. I prefer high waisted pants because they give the illusion of longer legs and an hourglass figure, whereas midrise pants tend to section me off in strange places and low rise pants make everything look wider. Don’t just choose any high waisted pant, though. The ideal pair will rest above your belly button but below your ribcage, cinching in at the narrowest point of your waist. If you do find a pair of pants with a higher than ideal rise, try sizing down so that it hugs your curves instead of covering them.
The ideal pant is snug and cinches you in at the waist.
For winter, opt for a pant that’s full length, or even a bit oversized. Straight leg jeans look best when they end below your ankle, skimming your shoe. Flare jeans, on the other hand, will elongate your legs if they flow over your shoes. If you do decide to try an oversized style, just make sure the ankles aren’t baggy – this can make your legs look short and stubby.
And there you have it: the ultimate guide to pants. Go forth and shop; LA winter has nothing on you and your well-clad legs.