In recent years, shopping second-hand has been transformed from an almost shameful act of financial necessity into a glamorized hobby for the fashion-forward. While this change has been largely positive – it is undoubtedly better for the environment for Shein hauls to be replaced by Goodwill Bins steals – there is a darker side to this shift in shopping culture.
Have you ever asked yourself what happens to your clothes after you donate them? Most assume that the clothes they donate will eventually end up in someone else’s closet, or repurposed and given a new life. For the most part, this is accurate. Goodwill, for example, “has an 86% diversion rate from local landfills…” meaning that 86% of the clothing they receive is not directly dumped into domestic landfills. However, that leaves an unaccounted for 14%, and doesn’t consider international impact.
[The Global Impact]
Goodwill admits that much of the clothing that they are unable to sell in store is shipped and sold internationally. Historically, the majority of this clothing ends up in developing nations – where it is dumped. This large-scale import and dumping of second-hand clothing to developing nations has created many job opportunities for locals, such as reselling and scavenging. However, it has also created a dependency on imports from wealthy nations, ultimately damaging local textile industries. In Kenya, as foreign textile imports have increased, the amount of local textile mills have shrunk exponentially – “In the early 1990s, Kenya had about 110 large-scale garment manufacturers. By 2006, that number dropped to 55.” Today, there are only 15. Why you may ask? This is because the local textile industry cannot compete with the extremely low prices of secondhand imports.
[How We Can Help as College Students]
This is not to say that everyone should stop shopping second-hand, or to throw old clothes in the garbage instead of donating them. However, when it comes to sustainably discarding old clothing, there are better options than Goodwill, Plato’s Closet, or Buffalo Exchange.
One wonderful resource right on the UC Davis campus is the Aggie Reuse Store. The Aggie Reuse Store is located on the first floor of the Memorial Union, and provides second-hand clothing for free. They also take donations, so it is a very local way to dispose of old clothing while ensuring that it will end up directly in someone else’s closet. It is run by student volunteers and open from 10 AM to 5 PM on weekdays.
Other wonderful resources include Facebook groups and clothing swaps with friends. There are many Facebook groups that facilitate the bartering of used items. One good example is “Buy Nothing,” a group that has branches all over the United States. Buy Nothing groups are extremely localized and connect individuals who wish to donate their old things with others who could find a new use for them. By donating your clothes to Buy Nothing, you are directly transporting them into someone else’s closet, erasing the uncertainty that is inevitable when donating or shopping second-hand from a large corporate thrift store.
Perhaps the best option is a clothing swap. Not only are clothing swaps a wonderful way to get rid of old clothing and find new pieces, but they can also be a super fun social activity with a group of friends!
So, next time you outgrow a pair of jeans or decide that a top is so last season reconsider tossing it into the Goodwill donation bin. There are so many better, more localized, more sustainable options. By making little changes, it’s not only possible to make an environmental difference but also to help communities all across the globe.