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Arts in the City: Politics of Fashion│Fashion of Politics

This article is written by a student writer from the Her Campus at U Toronto chapter.

Currently ongoing at the Design Exchange (our very own exclusive design museum located at King and Wellington) is the Politics of Fashion│Fashion of Politics exhibit. It is guest curated by Jeanne Beker, fashion/media industry icon, as well as Design Exchange curator Sara Nickleson. From all the cool matte black ads posted all across the city, I was very intrigued in finding out more about the show.

Located in a rather small exhibition space, the show is divided up into several distinct categories starting with Ethics, and Activism, Gender and Sexuality, Consumerism, War and Peace, and wrapping it all up with Campaign and Power Dressing.  

A darkly complex exhibition that incorporates many important socio-political events, ideologies, and expression, the show fittingly introduced itself with a 1991 quote from social psychologist John Turner:

“Dress is more than mere objects and materials people put on their bodies. Dress can be a sign or symbol that refers to or sands for meanings not inherent in material or object. In sum, the physical body when dressed reflects the “social body” or surrounding societal system.”

Several different, and recognizable designers contributed to this exhibition. Both vintage, and current pieces were shown in their curated categories. Vivienne Westwood, spotted with her trademark tartan and anarchistic, beautiful designs were included in a piece about the environment, and consumerism.

Jean-Paul Gaultier’s gender-bending and avant-garde garments were shown as an artifact of the Sexual Revolution, along with newer pieces by Canadian designer, Jeremy Laing. The latest ventures of eccentric designer Jeremy Scott, of Moschino were also present to contribute something to the dialogue. Although fashion and design is a focus of the exhibition, it’s ultimately the political charged meanings, and origins of the textiles that drive the point home.

The different categories of the exhibit all offered a little bit of enriching information to the viewer, whether it was discussing the raison d’etre of FEMEN, the women activist group, or national politics, and identity via Alexander Wang’s creations. Although the exhibition mainly consisted of designer garments carefully worn by individual mannequins, what were simply modeled clothing, turned into individual pieces of contemporary art, rich with their own discourse and meanings. I was pleasantly surprised with the way the exhibition was organized as to not let the designer garments distract the viewer from the true purpose of the show. But rather, another layer was added to the expressive nature of each exquisite fashion creation.

An aspect that I loved about this exhibition was the fact it showed fashion in another light. As fun as Best-Dressed Lists, and Who Wore Better comparisons are in glossy magazines, it’s uncommon for high fashion to cover serious topics such as racism, gender and partisan politics. Politics of Fashion│Fashion of Politics opens a discussion about the complex issue of self-expression via fashion and at the same time, it shows how politics drives fashion.

A good example of this as shown in the exhibition would be the history behind the duffle coat, first manufactured during World War 1 and a very popular winter staple for both sexes to this day. This coat was fashioned for strictly utilitarian purposes: the thick walrus-tooth fastenings were easy to move and tie up even for the most frozen of hands. But fashion pieces created to endorse and discuss politics also fall into this category. Political paraphilia displayed in Campaign and Power showed the popular paper-dress of the 60s, the favorite attires of famed political stars such as J.F.K., and campaign trail shirts, buttons, etc.  

Definitely a must-see exhibition for the coming months, Politics of Fashion│Fashion of Politics will be at the Design Exchange until Jan 25. Take some time, fellow collegiate, from your stressful midterms and finals, and take in this beautifully curated exhibit. Free digital FLARE subscriptions also comes per ticket to the exhibition, a perfect complement to this fashionable affair! Check out the Design Exchange’s website for more information. 

Image Source ( as they appear) : 

http://1loveto.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/DX-2.jpg

http://www.canadiandesignresource.ca/officialgallery/wp-content/uploads/…

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Karen Li

U Toronto

Book & Media,Visual Studies + Writing and Rhetoric. 1T6 20 something-female at the University of Toronto with a penchant for spotting the best Thai restaurant around. When she is not optimizing the perfect take-out order, she can be found writing about culture, media, and lifestyle at her blog, http://www.plasticconfetti.wordpress.com