Anyone who is familiar with modern day fashion has probably heard of the HermĂ©s Birkin bag: British actor and designer Jane Birkin’s iconic blueprint of a chic, all-in-one tote that has transformed into HermĂ©s’ most sought after dream bag.
But obtaining one is far from your average transaction. Besides the ability to afford this upwards-of-$10,000 tote, you must also be notable enough to even talk about buying one with a sales associate, as ownership comes with a set of pre-requisites only a select crowd can check off (ex.- brand loyalty). Celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Victoria Beckham pride themselves in their means to own a collection.
Like many luxury brands, HermĂ©s has capitalized on exclusivity, the practice of limiting certain entities to a select group of patrons. By supporting the brand status of HermĂ©s via Birkin ownership, clients, in return, receive a boost in social capital. It’s a two way street — one that reinforces the notion that ownership is not just about the bag itself, but the prestige it bestows.Â
In recent months, however, an influx of mass-produced Birkin replicas has made its way into mainstream fashion, with retailers like DHGate, the TikTok Shop, and most notably Walmart (yes, Walmart), promoting these $50 to $200 duplicates. And while the market for luxury replicas isn’t anything novel, this particular surge is rather indicative about our shifting socio-political atmosphere.Â
The Push Back on Exclusion
Over the past decade, a push for inclusivity has reshaped the fashion industry. High fashion, once reserved for the elite, has increasingly made its mark in the mainstream, particularly through fast fashion copy-pastes and online marketing. With retailers constantly flogging an affordable image of luxury, mainstream customers are granted a taste of high class for a portion of the price.
This boom in faux-luxury product sales — like the counterfeit Birkin — doesn’t come as a surprise given that consumer culture is at an all-time-high. It’s no secret that people can be easily influenced — and that corporations will ruthlessly leverage this to their advantage.Â
But wanting a seat at the cool kid’s table isn’t the only motive that’s driving regular consumers to spend their hard-earned cash on counterfeit. Ironically, it’s to spite the velvet-roped echelon that triggered their envy in the first place.
Counterfeit Chic: A Rage Against the Fashionable Elite
In recent years, class consciousness has gained recognition; particularly among younger generations who are hyper-aware of wealth disparity and economic injustice. Owning luxury items has long been a symbol of exclusivity, but as conversations around inequality grow louder, many see the gatekeeping of status symbols — like the Birkin bag — as emblematic of a larger, flawed system. Consumers aren’t just seeking affordability by embracing these counterfeits; they’re confronting the notion that wealth dictates worth.Â
“The rich are really losing their minds over this Walmart bag,” said one user in response to an online review of a Birkin dupe, widely referred to as “the Wirkin.”Â
“It makes me happy to see how popular they are, and how much HermĂ©s hates it,” another chimed in. “The Wirkin is for the workin’ class!”
In a way, it’s an act of defiance to mock the elitism that high fashion endorses. If the ultra-rich insist that exclusivity is the essence of luxury, then widespread accessibility, authentic or not, threatens to unravel that illusion.
Behind the Bargain
I generally agree with the idea that quality, luxury goods should be attainable for most. That being said, I don’t think the solution lies in a $78 Walmart knockoff. It may seem progressive to democratize a luxury that few once had access to, but behind the bargain reveals a different story.
Many of these knock-offs are manufactured overseas, in regions where lenient labor laws and wage suppression account for the exploitation of millions of garment workers—a significant number of whom are children. Among the estimated 75 million garment workers, the vast majority are underpaid, overworked, and forced to persist in inhumane conditions, all to produce quotas that will probably end up at your local Goodwill before the next trend cycle even begins.Â
Rethinking Luxury
The good news is that it’s possible to ethically fulfill your designer desires, without breaking the bank. Many consignment stores sell second hand designer labels, as well as authenticated luxury resellers like The Real Real and Vestiaire Collective. And, if you prefer to buy new, some of my favorites can be found on Quince, a sustainable apparel company with a focus on quality, accessible luxury. Most of their handbags fall within the price range of a faux Birkin, like this Italian Leather Satchel I adore.Â
In the long run, we need to take a hard look at society’s values surrounding luxury fashion. Why do we yearn for exclusivity, and who does it actually benefit — or harm? Carrying around a counterfeit may ruffle the feathers of the rich, but there is a larger price to be paid by exploited workers and the environment, both of which suffer under the weight of mass consumption— a direct byproduct of capitalism. The commodification of luxury is a reminder that class and conflict permeate our decision making and choices, even when it’s to our detriment. Luxury doesn’t always mean quality, though, and it certainly doesn’t mean ethical. In an age where it’s important to put our money where our mouths (and morals) are, consider putting down the Birkin and the Wirkin.