For nearly a century, Little Italy has transformed every September into a tribute to Saint Gennaro, and this year, I had the chance to experience it for myself. The San Gennaro Feast is an 11-day festival in Little Italy with religious, culinary, and cultural celebrations. Crowds fill Mulberry Street to enjoy authentic Italian food and honor Saint Gennaro. From the aroma of fresh cannoli to the sounds of live music echoing through the streets, the festival brought the spirit of Italian heritage to life in a way I could feel all around me.
History
Saint Gennaro of Naples was the Bishop of Benevento, Italy, and was martyred in 305 A.D. His death was called for after he visited the deacons, Sosso and Proculo, and the laymen, Eutiche and Acuzio, in jail. He was arrested and tortured, but never wavered in his loyalty to Christ. He was even thrown into a furnace but came through untouched – an event that is believed to be divine intervention. He was then beheaded and his body is preserved in Naples. Neapolitans pray to him for protection from fires, earthquakes, plagues, droughts, and the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. He is known as the ‘universal helper’.
Saint Gennaro’s blood, which is normally solidified, liquefies twice a year on the first Sunday of May and September 19, the anniversary of his martyrdom and the beginning of the San Gennaro feast. When the Italian immigrants settled on the lower east side of Manhattan, each region of Italy took a different street, with the Neapolitans on Mulberry Street. In 1926, to uphold their traditions, they decided to hold a block party for their Saint Gennaro, and it has continued every year.
My experience
To get to the festival from the University of Connecticut, I caught a ride to Fairfield, met up with some friends, and then took the train to Grand Central. After that, we walked along Fifth Avenue, taking in the city. This was only my second time visiting New York, so I was very excited. After we got our fill, we took the subway to Mulberry Street and immediately got swept into the energy of the feast. The streets were overflowing with people shoulder-to-shoulder, weaving between vendor stalls. The air smelled like cannolis and sausage, mixing with the scent of cigar smoke.
The first thing on my list: acquire a cannoli. I found a vendor, Cannoli King, with the biggest cannolis I had ever seen. I bought the jumbo size and watched as it was filled fresh on the spot, the shell perfectly golden and the cream piled high. The vendor handed it to me, and I dug in, coating my shirt with powdered sugar in the process. I was hooked.
We continued down Mulberry Street, weaving between people and searching for the next thing to do. Everywhere we turned, there were vendors calling out orders, lights overhead, and music blending with laughter. My friend grabbed chicken skewers, admittedly overpriced, and washed them down with ice-cold lemonade. We found a few souvenir shops, and I bought a magnet to add to my dorm’s collection on my fridge. To pass the time before dinner, we went into the year-round Christmas shop and found a seat, reflecting on our day so far and anticipating the meal to come. Then, we made our final stop before dinner: the cigar vendor. Joining in the tradition, my friends purchased a freshly rolled cigar while I passed and let them enjoy. We stayed there for a while, people-watching and soaking in the energy of the street, with the day turning into night.
By the time the sun was setting, we were more than ready for a real meal. We made our way to Da Nico’s, a cozy, authentic spot. The staff were dressed in special shirts, highlighting their restaurant’s participation in the San Genaro feast. We chatted with our waiter and the manager, as my friend’s family was connected to the restaurant, and we enjoyed bruschetta and drinks. Sharing stories from our day, and connecting over shared experiences. The restaurant had such a familial feel, with the waitstaff bonding with the customers: laughing with guests, sharing stories, and greeting regulars by name. When it came time to order, I chose the pasta carbonara, and it was heavenly: rich, creamy, and exactly what I was craving — a satisfying end to the perfect day.
My advice
I went into this celebration knowing very little and following behind my more experienced friends. But, if you are looking to go next year and don’t have seasoned “regulars” to go with, here is some of my advice.
- Plan your Transportation ahead of time
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Public transportation can be confusing, especially in a city you’re not from. There are a lot of resources online where you can plan out what trains and subways to take ahead of time. I used the Google Maps public transportation section and the MTA app. While it can be overwhelming in the beginning, I found it very easy to navigate.
- Be ready for large crowds
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I expected there to be a good number of people at the festival, but I was shocked at just how packed it was. We spent most of the day pushing through shoulder-to-shoulder crowds. Many people also had strollers or other large items. Go in with patience, expect lines for food, and know that you’ll be stopping often. Also, bring a bag that you can keep close to you, like a crossbody bag or a purse. And, make sure to always stay with your group/buddy and have a plan in case you get separated.
- Dress comfy but cute
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You’ll be walking, standing, and weaving through crowds for hours, so comfortable shoes and clothes are a must. It is also during a relatively hot time of year, so dress according to the weather. But, at the same time, there are so many cute spots to take pictures. Take advantage of the glowing lights, decorated storefronts, and colorful signs. So, my advice is to wear something you feel cute in while still being practical.
- bring money
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Between cannolis, sausages, lemonade, and more, it adds up fast. Some vendors take cards, but many prefer cash, and it makes the lines move more quickly. Also, if you’re planning on going to a nice restaurant for dinner, be prepared to spend a pretty penny. Set a rough budget so you don’t go overboard, but leave room for some fun treats.
- Make a list of what you want to do
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There is so much happening that it is easy to get distracted and miss something you wanted to do. Pick a few must-do items and hit those first so you don’t miss out. But make sure to leave room for spontaneous adventures.
By the end of the night, I was exhausted, but fulfilled in many ways. First, I felt grateful for my friends and the opportunity to be a part of the community that surrounded the feast. And second, my stomach was full and happy from all of the wonderful food I ate. I highly recommend making the trip from Storrs to Little Italy to experience this feast and create long-lasting memories. I can’t wait to go again.