Without a doubt, Hyde Park has been undergoing a series of riveting transformations in the last few years.
Among its newest additions is A10, a swanky restaurant opened by Matthias Merge—owner of Yusho and Billy Sunday, and former chef of Charlie Trotter’s. The elegant, dimly lit Italian and French-inspired restaurant, located at 1462 East 53rd Street, marks Hyde Park’s first steps toward upscale dining and has attracted the attention of Chicago “foodies” everywhere. Â
Last Friday, I decided to check out the restaurant myself. I made a reservation about two weeks in advance in preparation for the hype and crowds still surrounding its opening.
Upon walking in, I noticed the hustle bustle and crowd immediately. Straying from the typical Hyde Park audience, there were many suited diners and older folk. It was almost as if I had walked into a restaurant downtown—a welcome shift in this sometimes isolated neighborhood.
The restaurant was split in two, with one side dedicated to a semi-open kitchen space and dining area, and the other to a large island bar. My companion and I were strangely seated on the bar side, at a small table by the wall. The space was cramped with little room for servers to walk by, let alone for our large plates to fit.
Nonetheless, the place was well decorated, maintaining a theme of dark wood and brick tones with beautiful light fixtures. The native wall hangings were the only thing that didn’t quite blend into the dĂ©cor.   Â
For our drinks, we ordered a cocktail (CORPSE REVIVER #2) and white wine (Selbach, Riesling “Incline” Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2012). The wine was delicious, striking the perfect balance between tartness and fruitiness.
We then ordered the smoked eggplant pizza, barese sausage pizza, bucatini carbonara, and charred cauliflower for our main course. Each pizza came in two large slices—just the right amount for one person. The smoked eggplant pizza was doused in olive oil and balsamic vinegar and came with a generous portion of soft burrata (a type of cheese made from mozzarella and cream).
The bucatini carbonara lacked a bit in flavor, but made up for it with its texture of thick, chewy noodles and gooey egg. Meanwhile, the cauliflower made a lovely side; though typical restaurant fare, it came with a sprinkling of tart pickled raisins that punctuated its subtler flavor.
We ended by ordering the olive oil doughnuts with lemon curd for dessert. They were excellently made—soft, warm, and dusted with a coating of sugar—but underwhelming. I was left wishing for more olive oil flavoring and lemon sauce to distinguish it from any regular doughnut.
Overall, I enjoyed my A10 experience and am grateful for its entrance into Hyde Park’s dining scene. I look forward to seeing what it will add to its rather limited menu, however, for though A10 features some necessary staples, there isn’t anything to make it stick out. Â