Jewelry has stood the test of time through historical and modern relevance. Worn by royalty, common folk, warriors, and celebrities, it often represents more than just glitz and glam.
The history of jewelry offers a unique insight into the cultures, people, and societal values it came from, even having a profound influence on today’s trends.
Here is a short list of compelling adornment styles that have defined eras and continue to hold a symbolic meaning.
- Lover’s Eye Jewelry (18th-19th Century)
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If you’re having an affair, this is the perfect piece of jewelry for you!
Lover’s Eye jewelry was a popular trend among aristocrats who would commission artists to paint miniature life-like portraits of their secret lover’s eye(s). The portrait would then be set into a ring, necklace, or brooch and worn.
Due to the portraits only showing the eyes and the small size, this was a way for hidden partners to discreetly declare their affection for one another.
- Mourning Hair Jewelry (16th-19th Century)
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Hair jewelry is exactly what it sounds like — rings, necklaces, brooches, and sometimes even bracelets that incorporate human hair in their intricate design.
Stemming from a popular fad during the 16th century called memento mori, which roughly translates from Latin to “remember you must die,” according to Allure. This found its way into fashion, causing a lot of “death” themed jewelry to be made.
Necklaces with coffins, rings with crossbones, etc.; eventually, people didn’t want to be reminded of the constant looming presence of death, and the trend moved to sentimental accessories instead that included the hair of deceased loved ones to immortalize them.
- The Tennis Bracelet (20th Century)
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A game that changed it all, Chris Evert, a record-setting tennis player, wore a diamond bracelet to the US Open in 1978. Mid-match, Evert’s bracelet falls off, and she pauses the game to look for it.
While some believed that wearing a diamond bracelet to a major tennis match to defend her title was unseemly, Evert told the New York Times the bracelet made her feel empowered as both a woman and an athlete.
The bracelet was a signature accessory of Evert’s and began to be associated with the event. Thus, the name we all know now dawned long before Evert. The style emerged in the 1920s and was called the “eternity bracelet,” and it was a sign of luxury.
Although a Tennis Bracelet is still considered a luxury item, it has become a versatile accessory that can be paired with a floor-length black-tie dress or a regular t-shirt and jeans.
- Turquoise Stone Jewelry (2nd Century)
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Indigenous cultures in North America utilized the turquoise stone for Jewelry, among other things. The striking blue and green stone was fastened into necklaces, and the purpose/significance of the stone varies between Native tribes, according to jewelry brand T.Skies.
The Acoma Pueblo in the southwestern part of the U.S. believe turquoise beads can make the wearer more attractive and beloved. Whereas the Akimel O’odham of southern Arizona believe the stone brings strength and healing, which is similar to the Apache tribe near Mexico, who used to attach turquoise on their bows because they believed that the stone originated from rainbows and would improve their precision when hunting and in battle.
Among other groups, the stone is considered very spiritual and connected to nature. In the 19th Century, Indigenous peoples began incorporating silver and iron into the jewelry designs and began selling them to the trading posts.
- Acrostic Jewelry (19th Century)
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Originating from the Georgian era, acrostic jewelry is a type of jewelry that hid secret messages using the first letter of each gemstone used.
These multi-coloured pieces were fun and unique but held sentimental value. For example, if you wanted to give your loved one a ring that spelled out “ADORE,” then the gems would be placed in this order: Amethyst, Diamond, Opal, Ruby and Emerald.
To convey longer messages, people would stack rings with multiple gems.
Queen Victoria is linked to being one of the people who popularized the trend. Even Napoleon participated in the fad by famously giving his second wife a necklace that translated from French spelled out “Beloved,” according to the jewelry brand the Antique Ring Boutique.
- Big Gold Chains (20th Century)
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During a time of political and social change, a new genre of music called hip-hop was emerging. To channel their frustration and become the voice of the disenfranchised and self-expression, members of the Black community took to hip-hop.
The growing competitiveness of the industry created an image in which hip-hoppers would wear big gold chains to showcase their growing success, according to jewelry magazine Something About Rocks.
Some hip-hop legends that popularized the chains in the ’80s are Run-D.M.C. and Slick Rick. The gold chain is now a staple in the hip-hop industry and has even influenced street style. The large chains represented cultural pride, resilience, and prosperity.
Transcending periods of history, jewelry has been a constant. Although the different style crazes and the regions they came from vary, jewelry has unwaveringly reflected the interests and values of the people who joyfully wore them, encapsulating moments of devotion, traditions, and identity wrapped up in an aesthetic design.
As humans, we continue to choose to wear jewelry because it reflects not only how we feel but how we want the world to understand us.