The First Lady has the most important non-elected role in America. Every gown worn at an Inaugural Ball says something about her, her era, and America. One thing that I couldn’t deny after doing research for this article is that, First Lady or not, fashion has been political. So, here’s a ranking of my top 10 inaugural looks.
10. Pat Nixon’s Mimosa Yellow Crystals (1969) – Republican
Pat Nixon’s warm yellow Karen Stark gown embroidered with Austrian crystals ranks 10 on my list due to its beauty but lack of cultural awareness. I feel that Nixon’s era was one of law and order, Vietnam, and counterculture tensions. To me, it was a memorable moment when she wore sunny yellow to symbolize hope in such a divisive time, but it seems tone deaf since these conflicts were largely started by the U.S. She was nicknamed “Plastic Pat” for her constant smile. Some comments on her appearance from a 1969 article include:
- “a pretty blonde who looks younger than her 56 years,”
- “a good figure and good posture,”
- “Fluff just isn’t becoming on her. She needs an overhauling job,”
- “The best-looking legs of any woman in public life today.”
These are most definitely a sign of the times in terms of how women were seen in the 1960s and seeing how unkind people were about Pat and her style makes me feel for her. I believe that the legacy of this dress is well-intended and sweet, but not boundary-breaking.
9. Nancy Reagan’s Hollywood Beaded Glam (1981) – Republican
This white one-shoulder, heavily beaded gown was made by James Galano. Nancy Reagan was often praised for elegance but was critiqued as being too Hollywood for D.C., which seems hypocritical since her husband Ronald got his start as an actor. Reaganomics, conservative resurgence, and celebrity politics defined her era, and to me, this dress beautifully embodied the glitzy traditional optimism of Reagan’s vision for America, blending politics with star power. Fun fact: Nancy often scheduled events by astrology. Following the 1981 assassination attempt on President Reagan she turned to an astrologer for advice—truly ahead of her time. RIP Nancy, you would have loved Costar.
8. Jackie Kennedy’s Powder-Blue? Coat and Pillbox Hat (1961) – Democrat
This pale robin’s-egg blue wool coat with oversized buttons by Oleg Cassini was paired with a matching Halston pillbox hat, fur muff, and fur-trimmed boots. Jackie’s look is the only non-gown look on this list, and it caught my eye because of the attention to detail. The oversized buttons are sort of avante-garde, but they make her look very petite by contrast (which is so cutesy to me). I love how the scarf and gloves match and that the hat was slightly dented when she hugged supporters that morning. To me, this level of imperfection is so sincere that it has become iconic.
At inauguration Jackie stood beside her husband in frigid weather as snow fell, her calm poise and chic simplicity instantly defining the “Camelot” aesthetic. To me, this is the spitting image of early 1960s Cold War optimism—a new generation entering the White House amid global tension. Some sources now say that the “blue coat” people see in photos might look blue due to lighting or early color photography, but the garment may have been beige in reality. Either way, only Jackie could make frostbite look like such haute couture. This is one of the many moments that cemented her as a global fashion symbol—elegant, poised, and distinctly modern.
7. Hillary Clinton’s Violet Lace Gown (1993) – Democrat
This royal purple lace gown with iridescent beading was made by Sarah Phillips, a young, relatively unknown designer at the time. I believe that saturated purple tones like this have historically shown nobility and sophistication due to the scarcity of natural deep purple dyes (hence royal purple/blue). This dress was a really tough call for me on this list. It was almost replaced by her 1997 champagne dress, but this violet color is undeniably spectacular on her. Hillary personally chose the color to represent creativity and bipartisanship—purple being a blend of red and blue.
In the era of the “New Democrat” politics and rising conversations around women balancing power and approachability, this dress made waves. This modest cut tempered Hillary’s reputation as an ambitious policy partner, showing warmth without ceding authority, which is a game women still find themselves playing today. This look leaned on grace over glamour—foreshadowing the duality she’d navigate to this day.
6. Helen Taft’s Smithsonian-Starting Silk (1909) – Republican
Helen Taft’s white silk chiffon gown embroidered with floral sprays was the first First Lady gown to be donated to the Smithsonian, beginning a tradition. Helen was also the first to ride in the Inaugural Parade with her husband. This was particularly impactful in the early 1900s due to women fighting for their suffrage amidst the impacts of industrialization. Her donation politicized fashion as history in a way that feels fitting for this period. I believe she immortalized the dress by turning it into an exhibit (honestly, I have some outfits good enough to start a Smithsonian wing about, but whatever).
5. Edith Roosevelt’s Edwardian Silk and Lace (1905) – Republican
As the oldest dress on the list, this Edwardian silk and lace number was understandably dignified but also felt restrained to my eyes. Edith was the one who elevated the First Lady into a formalized public role which mirrors her time period, The Progressive Era—modernization and women’s increasing public presence. Edith and her dress reflected early 20th century respectability politics—understated but powerful. Edith pioneered in many aspects, but most importantly, I feel that she was the original clean girl! While her image is nothing daring to the modern eye, she was institution-shaping in her own right.
4. Lady Bird Johnson’s Sunshine Satin and Mink (1965) – Democrat
This yellow satin gown with mink trim and matching coat by John Moore is one of my all-time favorites. Lady Bird was known for her “beautify America” campaign, which focused on improving the national landscape through legislation like the Highway Beautification Act of 1965. Her work included removing billboards, encouraging scenic plantings along highways, preserving landmarks and green spaces, and as you can see, she favored bright colors. She spearheaded all of this in the context of Great Society programs, Civil Rights movement, and the US escalation in Vietnam. Much like Pat Nixon, the yellow can be seen as a symbol of optimism and warmth — projecting cheer in a turbulent political climate. I believe that the silhouette of this cape is otherworldly but timeless. 10s across the board!
3. Mamie Eisenhower’s Pink Rhinestone Gown (1953) – Republican
This bubblegum pink peau de soie gown by Nettie Rosenstein was hand made with over 2,000 rhinestones. Mamie accessorized it with a matching rhinestone clutch and 18-button gloves. The color was so iconic it became known as “Mamie Pink” (which is my brat green). This dress was worn in the 1950s postwar boom during suburban consumerism, and Cold War nuclear anxiety which hid under glossy domestic ideals. I know I’m 2 years late to this joke, but she pioneered Barbenheimer. Mamie lived the high-brow life that was advertised so intensively as the American dream of the 1950s. Mamie had 28 pairs of gloves for inauguration week alone! This ultra-feminine sparkle was emblematic of 1950s conformity. With that being said, I feel that the housewife ideal has never looked better than Mamie in pink rhinestones. This places her at #3 for aesthetic appeal alone.
2. Michelle Obama’s Jason Wu Fairytale (2009) – Democrat
This Jason Wu one-shoulder white chiffon gown is covered in organza flowers and Swarovski crystals. Wu was only 26, and the gown’s debut launched his career overnight. The dress is light and breezy yet formal and often described as fairytale-like. This dress made perfect sense in the wake of Bush optimism and entered the era of “Yes We Can” hopefulness. The gown’s romantic modernity symbolized a fresh unprecedented time in America, uplifting new talent and rewriting history.
I can’t mention Michelle Obama’s legacy without acknowledging the racism and scrutiny she endured in office. As the first Black First Lady, she was relentlessly dissected and dehumanized. Her body, fashion, and femininity were all politicized. Her 2009 Jason Wu gown became more than a debut look; it redefined grace and beauty on her own terms. It was soft, romantic, and dignified in a way that challenged racist stereotypes and rigid expectations of her. In my eyes, this made her composure and style all the more powerful. It felt appropriate for the occasion while feeling like a dress anyone at home could wear. She was also known to balance accessibility (frequently wearing J. Crew), showing that American style could be relatable while being glamorous. Michelle danced with Barack to Beyoncé’s “At Last” in this gown, sealing it in pop culture. Among the most iconic inaugural gowns of all time, she too lives in the Smithsonian with almost all of the dresses on this list.
1. Rosalynn Carter’s Recycled Blue Chiffon Gown (1977) – Democrat
Finally, Rosalynn Carter’s blue chiffon gown with gold-embroidered coat by Mary Matise first made an appearance in 1966 at Jimmy Carter’s gubernatorial inauguration. Rosalyn was wearing vintage before vintage was cool. She was also a trailblazer, as Rosalynn and Jimmy were the first couple to walk down Pennsylvania Ave in the inaugural parade. In the post-Watergate, economic malaise, energy crisis, this presidency was built on “honesty and frugality.” Her recycled gown was representative of the Carters’ down-to-earth, anti-elitist image. It was criticized at the time for being “too plain,” but now praised as sustainable and accessible. It’s sad to think she never got to win an eBay bidding war, but I’m just glad she never had to see Depop prices.
First Lady fashion is the most visible form of political theater. All these gowns are cultural artifacts, and style statements rolled into one. From Rosalynn’s frugality to Michelle’s modern fantasy, each gown tells us something about its epoch. The runway may be the Inaugural Ball, but the message is always history.