On 29 October, Glamour UK published its women of the year issue. Among the women honored were actresses Demi Moore and Rachel Zegler, singer Tyla, and several others. However, this issue came under scrutiny for its cover story. The cover featured an assembled group of nine accomplished trans fem models, activists, and creatives, all wearing matching âprotect the dollsâ shirts. The group was among Glamourâs 2025 honourees for women of the year and received a poignant tribute on the UK issueâs cover article, âThe Dolls: âWhat we really crave is to work, love and exist with dignityââ, written by one of the honourees herself, Shon Faye.
The phrase âprotect the dollsâ has made its mark through fashion, popular culture, and politics this year, but using the term “dolls” to refer to trans women isnât really new at all. Originating in the 1980s ballroom world, among Black and Latin communities, it was used as a slang term to describe ultrafeminine trans women in the scene. The history of the word and the nuances of using the phrase to describe trans people outside ballroom culture are further described in this PinkNews article.Â
Fast forward several decades, and the phrase âprotect the dollsâ first made a splash in 2025, when fashion designer Connor Ives took the final bow of his London Fashion Week show, wearing a white T-shirt with the phrase in simple, capitalized black text. The shirt was made the night before the show, as Ives decided he wanted to send a message with his runway appearance. The designer described workshopping several other phrases in the studio while deciding how best to show public support and admiration for his trans friends and collaborators. He finally landed on âprotect the dollsâ, feeling the phrase both captured the gravity of the current political climate post-Trumpâs inauguration, while also capturing the familiarity and approachability of his relationship with the trans people in his life. Although the term “dolls” has typically been reserved for hyperfeminine trans women, the phrase on Ivesâ shirt has taken on a life of its own, aligning with the designerâs intended message and becoming a statement of support for the trans community as a whole.Â
The shirt quickly gained popularity among several celebrities showing their support for trans rights as they continue to be challenged, particularly in the US and UK. Pedro Pascal, who has repeatedly used his spotlight to stand up for the trans community and whose sister is a trans woman, has sported Ivesâ T-shirt on multiple occasions: first at his 50th birthday party, and later at the London premiere of Marvelâs Thunderbolts* (this latter appearance came just days after the UK Supreme Court ruled that the legal definition of a woman would be based on biological sex). Troye Sivan wore the shirt last spring as he joined Charli XCX during her highly anticipated Brat Coachella performance. Madonna, who has been an advocate for LGBT rights since the 1980s, publicly spoke out against growing anti-trans sentiments in March, and has since been seen on multiple occasions wearing Ivesâ shirt. Further pictures and videos of pop stars such as Kesha, Addison Rae, and Tate McRae wearing the shirt have continued to go viral, prompting the phrase to enter pop culture.
Ives continues to sell the shirt on his website, with all proceeds going to the community support organization Trans Lifeline.
Ahead of this yearâs Transgender Awareness Week and the Transgender Day of Remembrance on 20 November, it feels like the right time to highlight Ivesâ call for the protection of trans people. 2025 has seen both the US and UK governments chip away at trans peopleâs legal protections, while trans individuals continue to be harassed and attacked for expressing their identities.
Powerful transphobes will use the excuse of âprotecting womenâ from hypothetical dangers to advance their exclusionary goals. When it comes time to actually protect women from pressing and tangible threats of misogyny and systemic violence, these same loud voices are usually nowhere to be found. Time and time again, we see the way that transmisogyny is weaponized against all women, stripping their privacy, policing gender expression, invalidating their accomplishments, and so much more. Yet many people who claim to care about women’s issues still focus on fearmongersâ fabricated threats and choose to ignore the ways that trans and cis women’s struggles are intertwined.Â
“Protect the dollsâ may have gained broader recognition in 2025 thanks to Ives’ shirt and the phrase’s dissemination into popular culture, but it shouldnât be treated as a passing fashion trend. This week, and every week after, it will still be just as essential to protect the dolls.Â