Androgyne is a gender expression that is known as a blend “between” male and female and/or the identification as neither feminine nor masculine, or neither female nor male. This term is used most often in queer communities as a form of expression for people aiming to be fluid in their gender identity. Androgyne is not to be confused with the gender identity of being non-binary. Wishing to dress androgynously and being androgynous is a form of expression that can or cannot be part of being non-binary.
With the wish to express being androgynous and comfortable in the clothes you choose to wear comes the breaking of boundaries on what is considered “men’s” and “women’s” clothing. Although the blend between the two has existed long before we may be aware of and has not always mirrored the segregated gendered sections of current department stores, there are significant points in time and moments in history where androgynous clothing has made an impact.
17th Century
In 17th-century Western Europe, men’s fashion and how the high class was represented was showcased through what is now considered women’s clothing.
Dressing in ruffles, lace, and the occasional skirt or high boot meant you had power and wealth. With the production of major luxury fabrics like silk and lace, rulers like King Louis XIV were famous for their style of dressing in the late 1600s going into the 17th century.
Some of the key clothing during this period included stockings, petticoat breeches resembling skirts, doublets, justaucorps, and cravats embroidered with silk, linen or lace. Red heels (and heels in general) were markers of royal distinction, and men were one of the first individuals to wear heels as a statement of high fashion.
Additionally, going into the 1800s the “shirtwaist” was a garment that began to blend the lines between what was deemed as a men’s or women’s piece of clothing. Worn as a symbol of female independence and the “New Woman,” the shirtwaist was modeled after a men’s shirt but used as a statement for progressiveness as women started working, gaining their own jobs and wages.
From the very beginning, articles of clothing deemed for a specific gender have been fluid and challenged daily.
Early Theatre
The 17th century was also a time when theatre was blooming, mostly in Shakespeare’s England. During this time the lack of women’s rights was prominent, and women not only were prevented from voting and owning property but were also expected to remain at home and tend to their children. Although women were forced to act meek, quiet, and submissive, they were often portrayed as the opposite when it came to the theater, with female characters being indecent and promiscuous.
Considering women would not join their male counterparts on stage until 1661, men took on the role of the women in these plays. Once women were allowed to grace the stage, the concept of “breeches” roles were introduced, where women now played roles meant for men. Constructions of sex and gender continued to be challenged, as famous roles like Sarah Bernhardt’s in 1899’s Hamlet proved that women were destined to be on stage in many ways.
Androgynous Looks in Mainstream Media
Going into the 1900s, we began to see a lot more fluidity in terms of what people chose to wear, especially when it came to celebrities and what was shown in the media.
French fashion designer Coco Chanel, for example, is known for changing the trajectory of women’s fashion. Wishing to free women from corsets that were ever so prevalent during this period, she created loose and fluid designs that were comfortable to wear.
A few fashion innovations and clothing items that Chanel popularized included women’s trousers, nautical tops, the “little black dress,” the Chanel suit, and jersey dresses, which were made from a fabric that was only commonly seen in men’s underwear.
Male celebrities during this time also showed fluidity in the way they were styled and presented to the public. Elvis Presley and David Bowie, for example, were famous for the way they dressed and presented themselves in the media.
Presley, breaking the norms of what a star was supposed to look like, debuted with clothing like bubblegum pink blazers, crop tops, and Zoot suits (a suit with high-waisted, wide-legged, tight-cuffed, pegged trousers, and a long coat with wide lapels and wide padded shoulders, originating from African American comedy shows). Presley’s style of clothing plus his flamboyant nature on stage paved the way for men to experiment more in the late 1900s.
David Bowie also debuted an androgynous alter ego named “Ziggy Stardust” in 1972. Bowie showcased a look with full glam and fluid clothing that changed the trajectory of how androgyny was viewed and later became a staple look in queer culture.
Current Day
Style today is more fluid and relaxed than ever. When it comes to celebrities or even everyday people, societal norms around gender and sexuality are constantly being challenged.
The styles of celebrities today like Billie Eilish, Letitia Wright, Lenny Kravitz, as well as a lot of K-pop styles are places where a lot of androgyny-seeking people can find inspiration.
From models walking both men’s and women’s runways to designers putting out fully androgynous lines, the future is fluid and free. To express yourself fully as you see fit, listed below are androgynous clothing brands that many people may not know of.
MerakiTay is a unisex clothing brand for all genders, most famous for their boxer briefs that allow for menstrual pads to be comfortably applied, allowing you to be comfortable in what you wear at all times.
Kirrin Finch, founded by Brooklyn-based couple Laura Moffat and Kelly Sanders Moffat, creates menswear-inspired apparel designed to fit a range of female and non-binary bodies.
Peau De Loup (Proudly Different League) is staying in the “loup” by creating clothing where the “pockets will be functional, and clothing will be fit with purpose,” centered on body shape and size rather than gender norms.
Dapper Boi is focused on the future of fashion creating gender neutral and body-inclusive clothing.
Learning the history of androgynous clothing also means learning why people are comfortable in the clothes they choose to wear. Clothes are meant to be comfortable and at the same time totally you. Regardless of what the gender norms are, choose what you feel best in, because as we can tell, they change.