Scandinavian Scarf. Buddha Bangles. Embroidered two-piece sets. These fashion items, while seemingly benign, are rooted in centuries-old Indian textile traditions. From vibrant block prints to intricate hand embroidery, Indian craftsmanship has had a profound influence on global fashion since the colonial era. However, many of these cultural elements have been stripped of their origins, renamed and rebranded for Western consumption. While the “Americanization” of Indian attire is a growing phenomenon, it is not a modern concept. Instead, it reflects a long-standing pattern of cultural appropriation that persistently fails to credit the artisans and traditions behind these designs. Â
India’s rich textile heritage, renowned for its weaving, natural dyes, block prints and regional fabrics, has historically been a source of fascination and, unfortunately, exploitation. During the Colonial era, European powers both admired and commodified Indian fabrics. A prominent example is the Madras pattern, originally from Chennai, which was quickly adopted by European traders. The vibrant handwoven cotton with checkered designs was later marketed globally and known as Western “plaid,” disregarding its rich origins. Similarly, the traditional dupatta has been rebranded as the “Scandinavian Scarf.” Fashion brands such as Peppermayo, Reformation, Zara and many more have capitalized on this trend, selling versions of the garment while failing to recognize its cultural significance. Many TikTok creators have posted videos expressing their distaste and disappointment with this phenomenon, as it does not credit traditional Indian wear. Furthermore, Kolhapuri chappals, handcrafted leather sandals from Maharashtra, have appeared in collections released by luxury Western fashion lines without proper acknowledgment of their Indian origin. This erasure of cultural credit is not just a minor issue; it reflects a deeper legacy of colonial control over narratives and representation. Â
Fashion has continued to appropriate cultural traditions and aesthetics. Mehndi, also known as henna, has been distorted into white ink tattoos. Similarly, bindis hold significance in Indian culture, as they encompass both a spiritual and personal symbol. However, bindis were once frequently found at Coachella and similar festivals, removed from their intended meaning. This concept is not unique to Indian fashion. Now more than ever, items like pashminas worn at raves or kimono-inspired cuts are redesigned to fit European fashion trends, often disregarding their original cultural value. Sharing culture and fashion can be a beautiful form of expression; however, these same cultural items have historically been ridiculed when worn by the communities they originate from. Now that they are suddenly deemed “trendy” without proper recognition, the shift becomes disheartening and tasteless. Â
European powers, who have long dominated trade and storytelling, often portrayed non-Western cultures as “exotic” or deemed them lesser. These biases persist in the modern fashion industry, as Western brands have greater access to resources, media and global markets. Due to this, they can profit from Indian designs while the artisans behind them remain invisible. This imbalance is further reinforced by cultural hierarchies and racism, which have historically devalued non-Western artistic contributions, commonly referring to them as “craft” rather than art.
Globalization and fast fashion have only intensified this issue. Companies like Roller Rabbit, for instance, have sold hundreds of products, including pajamas, bedding and more, featuring Indian-inspired prints without extending proper credit to the original Indian designs. The speed of modern trend cycles promotes the superficial use of cultural symbols, transforming deeply rooted traditions into disposable fashion trends. Â
There is an argument to be made that fashion has always been a form of cultural exchange. Cross-cultural inspiration and adaptation can be seen as a celebration of diversity if practiced respectfully. The distinct difference between appreciation and appropriation is intention, power dynamics and acknowledgment. Reflection is required when understanding where to draw the line. True appreciation involves giving credit, supporting artisans and educating consumers about the origins of what they wear. To strip garments of their stories and transform symbols of identity into marketable trends is ultimately exploitation. Indian textiles and craftsmanship continue to shape global aesthetics, but their origins, diverse visibility and dignity are often overlooked. Reclaiming acknowledgment is not about restricting creativity; it focuses on restoring respect.Â