Recently, my women and gender studies professor (the wonderful Professor Murnen) gave my intro class an interesting assignment: choose a “gendered product” (a product used more often, or exclusively by, a particular gender) study its use and marketing, and question whether it upholds particular gender norms. My group chose to examine the PINK line of underwear at Victoria’s Secret, which appears to be marketed at consumers as young as 11 (although it’s officially their “college” line).
The PINK line uses language like “soft” and “sweet” to describe their products, and sells lace-trimmed thongs that say things like “let’s make out” “make a move” or “I heart my boyfriend” (in girly cursive fonts). It is aimed at an adolescent version of the “sexy” ideal, in line with an advertising culture that sexualizes girls and young women. As one study put it, today’s media sends a strong message to girls—sometimes as young as 6—that their worth is primarily determined by “how beautiful, thin, hot and sexy [they are]” (Levin & Kilbourne, 2008).
In working on this project—and with Valentine’s Day coming up, a whole day devoted to being “sexy” for your special someone—I found myself experiencing an inner conflict. As a feminist, I was angry that Victoria’s Secret plays a role in selling the sexy ideal to young women, a social standard that makes true social equality (and body satisfaction) impossible as long as girls and women are encouraged to tie their value as people largely to their physical appearance. But as a woman who shops at Victoria’s Secret and kind of enjoys the girly, make-yourself-look-hot implications of Valentine’s Day, I felt like a hypocrite.
My confusion got me thinking—is there such a thing as hypocritical feminism? If you talk the talk—ie, you openly dislike advertisements/products that encourage women to see themselves primarily as sexual objects—do you have to walk the walk and consistently refuse to buy into it? I’ll admit it right now—I have purchased PINK push-up bras (they fit me really well), I wear makeup and lighten my hair, and I feel guilty when I don’t put in the effort to look at least somewhat pulled together. I have worn tight black dresses and three-inch heels, because I know they will make me look “sexier,” and while I do it for me—to feel confident and happy—where does “me” end…and the tacit support of an unhealthy “sexy=self-worth” culture begin? Especially on Valentine’s Day, when (let’s be real here) you want to look hot for the person you’re with?
I decided to ask Professor Murnen some of these questions. I began by asking her what a good working definition of feminism is and whether a feminist can be hypocritical in applying the movement to their own behavior. “I think the basic thing about being a feminist is recognizing that there is sexist oppression and wanting to change that” said Murnen. “Extending some analysis of sexist oppression to individual behavior can be difficult. We’ve been socialized into a culture that has a lot of sexist values.”
Okay, so I recognize that there is sexist oppression and I want to change it, but where does that leave me and my own relationship to society’s emphasis on the beauty/sexy ideal? “You have to be careful with balance” counseled Murnen. “If someone is engaging in a beauty ritual and it’s not harmful and doesn’t contribute to an overvaluation of appearance in their life…then I wouldn’t worry about it. It’s not makeup that leads women as a group to be devalued. I don’t see the problem with doing stuff with makeup [and other products], as long as they’re not spending a ton of money or time or overvaluing their appearance.”
Murnen went on to suggest that in the context of Valentine’s Day—where you’re exchanging gifts and trying to make yourself look good for someone else—the key thing is to make sure you’re in a balanced, equal relationship. As long as your beautification routine isn’t contributing to some sort of power imbalance—i.e. the sense that you have to wear makeup or look sexy to please your boyfriend/girlfriend—you probably don’t need to worry about whether you’re supporting sexist media messaging. So there you have it! A brief take on a very complicated issue. You can wear makeup and Victoria’s Secret bras and a little black dress on Valentine’s Day and still be the proudest of feminists…just make sure whoever you’re with is treating you as an equal.