Tori no Ichi (酉の市)is one of Japan’s signature November traditions.
This year, I visited the festival held at Hanazono Shrine in Shinjuku, which was bustling with many people and full of energy.
In this article, I’d like to share the atmosphere of the event while introducing its origins and key features.
What is Tori no Ichi?
Tori no Ichi is a traditional good-luck festival held at shrines and temples in the Kanto region in Japan. People visit to pray for prosperity in business and for good fortune in the coming year.
Among all the locations, Asakusa’s Otori Shrine in Tokyo is especially famous and attracts huge crowds every year.
—So, when does it happen?
The festival takes place on the “Day of the Rooster” according to the Chinese zodiac calendar.
Because the zodiac cycle repeats every 12 days, Tori no Ichi is held either twice or three times in November.
The three possible days are known as:
- Ichi no Tori (First Rooster Day)
- Ni no Tori (Second Rooster Day)
- San no Tori (Third Rooster Day) – only in certain years
This year, the First Rooster Day fell on November 12 and the Second on November 24, so the festival was held twice.
Most shrines host an eve event, followed by the main ceremony on Rooster Day itself.
A bit of history
The origins of Tori no Ichi date back to the Edo period. It began as a harvest celebration in which farmers expressed gratitude for the autumn crops.
The event developed into an open market selling farming tools and other items over time. This eventually grew into a festival where people prayed for business success and good fortune, and these purposes have taken over today.
What do people do at Tori no Ichi?
1. Buy a Kumade (Rake as a lucky charm)
Originally an everyday farming tool, the rake came to symbolize “gathering in good fortune” and evolved into the elaborate charm sold today.
Stalls display kumade of all sizes, each packed with lucky motifs such as gold coins, beckoning cats, and rice sheaves. Every shop has its own unique design, and they look almost like pieces of art.
It’s said that buying a slightly larger kumade each year will “grow your luck.”
Tejime
When you purchase a kumade, the vendors celebrate your good fortune with “tejime”, a rhythmic clapping ritual.
It’s a lively moment that adds to the festive mood and is symbolic of Tori no Ichi.
2. Shrine Visit
Because the festival draws enormous crowds, visitors line up to pray.
Once you reach the offering box, you toss in a coin and follow the traditional ritual:
- Two bows: First, bow twice.
- Two claps: Next, bring your hands together at chest level and clap twice.
- One final bow: With hands pressed together in front of the chest, make a wish, and finally bow deeply once.
This is the standard way of offering prayers at Shinto shrines.
3. Food Stalls
Food stalls line the shrine grounds and the streets leading to the torii gate.
Tori no Ichi is a great place to enjoy classic Japanese street food, such as:
- Yakisoba
- Okonomiyaki
- Takoyaki
- Oden
- Amazake
etc…
The sizzling sound of grills, the aroma of sauce, and the vendors’ cheerful calls all contribute to the festival’s lively atmosphere.
Japan has various types of okonomiyaki. This time, I ate “Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki”. Its signature feature is having yakisoba (stir-fried noodles) inside.
At Hanazono Shrine’s Tori no Ichi, alcoholic drinks are also available.On a cold night, nothing beats a cup of “atsukan” (hot sake) paired with “oden”. This combination makes you feel like a true local.
A Final NOte
Tori no Ichi is more than just a street fair. It’s a special event where people express gratitude for the year that has passed and pray for good fortune in the year to come.
The dazzling kumade and bustling stalls create a vibrant atmosphere that captures the spirit of Japanese festival culture.
I hope this article helps you discover another tourism option in Japan.