Onsen is a public bath build upon a natural spring. This means that the water in the baths is always naturally warm and meets certain requirements based on its mineral content. Mechanically heated public baths are called sento, “coin hot water” (stemming from the fact that the water is heated for a small fee), and while possibly equally refreshing, do not fulfill the requirements of an actual onsen.
Choosing an onsen
There are several different onsen in Japan, the main differentiating factor being the size. Small onsens have only one or two baths, bigger ones can have anything starting off from four baths, hot and cold tubs, saunas and outdoor areas. Prices typically vary between 500 and 2500 yen, approximately between 5 and 20 euros. Bigger onsens usually treat the customers with after-bath restaurants, drinks and supplies shops, as well as beauty and health services at an additional cost. Many hotels and inns also rock an onsen. It is important to notice, however, that most onsens forbid tattoos. Some very small ones can be covered with a water-proof plaster or similar, but make sure you know the policy before entering.
While the more prominent onsens sound a lot like a Western spa, their secret is the charm and the feel of authentic Japanese culture of the common people. The bathing area is typically very atmospheric, low-lit, relaxing and calm. Grab your towels (one large and one smaller) and soap, and in we go!
Getting in
Photo: Japanexperterna.se on flickr, www.japanexperterna.se
Since this is a Japanese bath, you are required to take your shoes off in the lounge. In a public bath house, there are usually lockers for your shoes. When I went to a noted public bath in Kyoto, the counter took the keys of the shoe box as a deposit for the actual locker keys. After the reception you choose the side according to your gender. In many smaller onsens, such as the ones in hotels, the male and female sides are switched daily so that everyone gets to experience all the baths.
Before entering the bath area, you get fully naked and put your clothes in the locker. Swimsuits or other bathing clothes are basically not allowed. This is not a problem for the Finns, and consequently marks one of the peculiar similarities between Japanese and Finnish culture! Upon entering the bathing area, you should only take your washing utensils and locker key with you.
Here comes the most important part: washing yourself thoroughly before the bath. It is of utmost importance that you wash and scrub every part of yourself clean before entering an actual bath. The showers are located in the same area with the baths, and people usually sit or squat while showering. A smaller coarse towel called akasuri is used to scrub the skin. This usually narrow and rectangular cloth is also used to cover oneself a bit while walking in the bathing area, but it is not necessary to do so. Long hair should be tied up so that it does not enter the water of the baths.
Bathing
Photo: Tsurunoyu Onsenin Semboku, Japan. Fumiaki Yoshimatsu on flickr and Wikimedia Commons.
Onsen water is rich of minerals, and bigger onsens have many different baths to choose from. The temperature of hot water baths can be for example anything between 36 – 45 °C. The water can be cloudy water, carbonated water or alkaline water, with different health benefits for your skin and body. When entering the bath, it is important to remember that your akasuri or small towel should never enter the bath. It is convenient to fold it and place it on the top of your head. Alternatively, you can fold it on the side of the bath. Swimming, splashing or being really loud are not approved of.
Beside taking a bath, you can also relax in sauna. The saunas in Japan tend to be a bit different from the Finnish ones. You may find a sauna with salt for peeling or a sauna with a tv – why not?
After bath
Photo: Ryosuke Hosoi on flickr.
When you think you are relaxed enough, it is time to leave. Whether you want to wash yourself immediately after bathing is up to you. Some believe that it is better to leave the mineral water on your skin for enhanced effect. After wiping yourself up and putting on your clothes, you can take advantage of the many services provided by the place, such as hair dryers and vending machines. Do not forget to return your keys! In the best scenario, you feel refreshed and like a new person after taking some time to relax in a very Japanese way!
All the photos licensed under Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International or Attribution 4.0 International.