As a Black woman, I’ve seen directly how our culture— our music, our art, our fashion— influences worldwide. From the emergence of jazz, hip hop, and R&B to innovative fashion and technologies, Black culture is the foundation of many global trends. But the truth is that, despite the fact that we have been influencing entertainment and society for generations, our efforts are frequently ignored, under-appreciated, or appropriated by others. This raises the challenge of how to preserve and honor our culture while simultaneously sharing it.
The Fine Line Between Appreciation and Appropriation
Culture is an expression of identity and history that should be shared, valued, and embraced. But there’s a fine line between sharing our culture and having it appropriated. Black culture, in particular, has made monumental contributions to music, fashion, entertainment, and countless other fields. But for far too long, we haven’t received recognition for the creativity and impact we’ve brought on the global stage.
Take, for example, hairstyles. In 2018, Kim Kardashian West shared a picture of herself sporting cornrows on Snapchat, calling them “Bo Derek braids,” after the white actress who “made the hairstyle popular” in the 1979 film 10. This misattribution sparked backlash, as cornrows have deep roots in African and African-American culture, long before Bo Derek’s portrayal. The controversy highlighted how Black hairstyles are often appropriated and misnamed, erasing their cultural significance.
Understanding and honoring cornrows’ cultural importance is essential to appreciating them. It involves acknowledging the rich history and roots behind the hairstyle rather than reducing it to a passing fashion trend. If someone outside of the Black community wants to wear cornrows, they should educate themselves on its history, understand its importance, and give credit to the culture from which it originated.
Take the influence of Bollywood in cinema or the worldwide recognition of Brazilian samba as examples of how other cultures have successfully shared their traditions while maintaining respect for their origins. Black culture should to be valued, comprehended, and honored for its importance rather than being diminished or commercialized when it is appropriated by others. The way it’s viewed makes a difference. Is it being appropriated without comprehension or is it being borrowed with respect?
The Erasure of Black Contributions
In addition to Black culture, being appropriated, it is often only recognized by the mainstream world once it’s rebranded or popularized by others—typically white people. When Black entrepreneurs, designers, and artists break down barriers, their contributions are frequently watered down, commodified, or stripped of their original meaning. These creations don’t gain widespread recognition and acceptance until they are repackaged by others.
For instance, consider Telfar Clemens. His company, Telfar, revolutionized the fashion business by embracing luxury in a way that was both accessible and inclusive. But it wasn’t until the brand’s appeal outside of the Black community skyrocketed that it began to garner the international acclaim it so richly deserved. Even at that time, mainstream fashion frequently appropriated his ideas without properly appreciating the uniqueness and cultural value of his creations.
When Black culture is erased or reduced to a trend, it’s essential that we protect it. This is what gatekeeping does. Our culture must be appreciated when it is borrowed by others, not only after it has been commercialized and made popular by people outside the community.
Not About Restricting, But About Protecting
Ultimately, gatekeeping is not about preventing others from appreciating Black culture— it’s about making sure that when others do appreciate Black culture, it is done with the reverence, recognition, and celebration it deserves. Black culture should be respected for its depth, inventiveness, and long history rather than only being appreciated from a distance. When Black culture is shared, it should be celebrated for what it truly is, and those who benefit from it must understand its origins and significance.
Gatekeeping is a proactive step to ensure that our culture is honored, that its authenticity is maintained, and that when shared, it is conveyed in a way that maintains its integrity. By preserving Black culture, we make sure that it is genuinely valued and honored worldwide.