Another season, another round of designers vying to define what couture means in 2025. This year’s Spring/Summer couture shows proved that while some houses remain faithful to tradition, others are rewriting the rulebook—or setting it on fire altogether. From Miss Sohee’s intricate, fairytale-like designs to Schiaparelli’s exploration of surrealism, these runways were anything but predictable. Here’s my take on the most compelling, theatrical, and downright breathtaking moments of the season so far.
Miss Sohee: Couture’s Quiet Powerhouse
If there were ever a house that deserves more mainstream attention, it’s Miss Sohee. The craftsmanship? Impeccable. The storytelling? Dreamlike. This season, the London-based designer leaned into her signature hyper-feminine aesthetic, delivering sculptural silhouettes that looked like they belonged in a museum—or perhaps, on the kind of woman who views fashion as an art form rather than just clothing. Think billowing capes, delicate embroidery that mimicked flower petals, and an almost otherworldly level of detail. While some couture houses have abandoned old-school glamour in favor of edgier, more “wearable” pieces, Miss Sohee doubles down on fantasy. Honestly? We need more of that.
Marc Jacobs: Fashion as Performance Art
Marc Jacobs has never been one to play it safe, and this season was no exception. His Spring 2025 couture collection felt like an invitation into his creative mind—a space where volume, texture, and proportion run wild in the best way possible. While specific thematic details were not highlighted, Jacobs’ use of exaggerated silhouettes, luxurious draping, and a bold color palette demonstrated his commitment to pushing fashion boundaries. The collection blurred the lines between fashion and performance, each piece telling a unique story that captivated the audience.
Zuhair Murad: The Art of Unapologetic Glamour
Zuhair Murad’s Spring 2025 couture collection transported audiences to an exotic island retreat, far removed from the trappings of modern life. Inspired by the romance of the 1950s and the elegance of the 1960s, Murad envisioned a “virgin island” where nature’s beauty and feminine allure converge. The collection was a vibrant celebration of tropical flora, with intricate beadwork depicting frangipani, hibiscus, and birds of paradise adorning flowing gowns. Standout pieces included dresses with palm frond motifs draped gracefully over the shoulder and evening columns featuring sequined fruits and vines. Set against the opulent backdrop of an 18th-century hôtel particulier once owned by Karl Lagerfeld, the show exuded old-Hollywood glamour, offering Murad’s clientele a plethora of choices for their next luxurious escape.
Jean Paul Gaultier: The Rebel Spirit of Couture
For Spring 2025, Jean Paul Gaultier invited Ludovic de Saint Sernin as the guest designer, marking him as the youngest to take on this prestigious role. The collection, titled “Le Naufrage” (The Shipwreck), drew inspiration from maritime themes, including Mylène Farmer and Seal’s “Les Mots” music video and a boat-shaped headpiece from Gaultier’s 1997 show. De Saint Sernin’s designs featured elements like seafoam-colored corsets, sequin-scaled skirts, and feathered accessories that evoked a sense of aquatic fantasy. This collaboration seamlessly blended Gaultier’s rebellious spirit with de Saint Sernin’s sensual aesthetic, resulting in a collection that was both nostalgic and forward-thinking.
Schiaparelli: The Art of the Surreal
Under the creative direction of Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli’s Spring 2025 couture collection delved into the house’s surrealist roots. The collection was a breathtaking fusion of sculptural tailoring and intricate embellishments, a reminder that couture isn’t just about beauty—it’s about storytelling. The show featured corseted dresses inspired by mid-century fashion and 19th-century embroidery techniques, blending historical elements with modern artistry. Roseberry’s designs challenged conventional beauty standards, presenting a collection that was both provocative and breathtaking.
Final Thoughts: Where Does Couture Go From Here?
This season proved that couture is far from a relic of the past—it’s a playground for designers who dare to dream. Whether through Schiaparelli’s surrealism, Marc Jacobs’ theatricality, or Zuhair Murad’s unabashed opulence, these collections didn’t just showcase clothing; they told stories, evoked emotions, and reminded us why we fell in love with fashion in the first place. If couture exists to inspire, then Spring 2025 was an overwhelming success.