For a colour that exists simply because of the absence of light according to the laws of physics, it is always a staple in anyone’s wardrobe – whether that’s in the form of a little black dress or a suit and pants to abide by boardroom etiquette.
However, it was not always that simple. The symbolism of black clothing has evolved through different centuries – whether it was grieving dramatically or signifying the working class, the colour black has always carried itself symbolically through the course of time and across different stages of society, justifying the weight its monotone carries.
ORIGINS OF BLACK DYE & A SYMBOL OF WEALTH
The origins of black dye can be traced back to 15th century Europe, where making permanent black dye was nothing short of a task. The steps to procure the colour often involved a multi-stage dyeing process that using imported materials like oak apples. Furthermore, any attempt to make the process least complicated resulted in a dark rusty brown shade.
During the 15th and 16th century, the Duchy of burgundy and the Spanish Court, established black as a socio-political and economic symbol. The colour black was also adopted by King Philip II of The Spanish Habsburgs in deep mourning over the death of father. Black eventually became the official colour of state for one of the most powerful empires in the world, and was often layered with exquisite white laced ruffs that became a symbol of a quiet, yet unquestionable authority. This eventually set precedent among the aristocrats who adopted it as a symbol of opulence under the guise of modesty.
MOURNING IN BLACK
During the 19th Century, The Industrial Revolution brought about more inexpensive dyes and made black clothing accessible to everyone. Although, the accessibility to black coloured clothing began to mean compulsion.
After losing Prince Albert, Queen Victoria set precedent for more explicit grieving by wearing only black and modest clothing for 4 years at a stretch. This established an unwritten rule where Widows were expected to replace their wardrobe dedicated to mourning their deceased partners in ways that reflected their different stages of mourning which became another indicator of class. Here, one was seen as socially respectable if they were able to afford “proper attire” for mourning.
Contrary to black clothing having grieving connotations, it was always a consistent symbol of professionalism and industry. Class differences were visible, even though they looked uniform, between what was custom made and machine made.
While the colour black was a strong indicator of class in Europe – it took on an entirely different and functional meaning in The Americas.
BLACK CLOTHING DURING THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION
Black clothing became omnipresent in the service and logistics sector primarily utilitarians for. However, its significance to identify the lower working class wasn’t lost. Within the service and hospitality sector, black became the standard to avoid “visible staining” of employees and helped maintain a more professional appearance. Black clothing remained a staple in warehouse transportation, manual services, and other physically demanding jobs as it often acted as a shield against the dirt one was exposed to.
The function of black clothing was often a sign of utility, status and mourning; however, the 1920s saw a dramatic shift and its symbolism.
COCO CHANEL’S LITTLE BLACK DRESS
Coco Chanel’s “Little Black Dress” also referred to as “LBD” sought to re-define the perception of black clothing – establishing itself as a sociopolitical statement along with representing an elegant look. The LBD was first introduced in an initial sketch in American Vogue showcasing its simple, calf-length design and it was eventually known as “Chanel Ford” comparing the streamline design of the dress to the mass produced car.
The LBD was radical in the 1920s. It broke the norms of black clothing being associated with mourning, especially post World War I – an era marked with loss of life and love throughout the world. The more independent role of women during the first world war and after that, saw them in more independent roles they could take up in the absence of men. This allowed them to incorporate the little black dress as a staple in their wardrobe as it proved to be a versatile garment like canvas with its uncorseted sheath providing ease of movement.
The LBD’s simple cut and neutral colour established itself as a foundational garment as it proved to be a black canvas where the entire style by itself, but by adding accessories which democratised high style and made luxury an achievable choice. The Little Black Dress proved to be a great economic asset throughout The Great Depression in the 1930s. Its versatility allowed women to display great care for the garment as The LBD’s simplicity played a vital role as women felt comfortable in repeating their outfits by just accessorizing it differently, reducing the significant financial burden that often comes with buying new clothing. Symbolically, the simplicity of The LBD and the ease of movement it provides, became a mark of solidarity through a period of sorrow while maintaining its sophistication – allowing it to be relevant and timeless.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Even as a symbol of absent light, black clothing has carried a lot of weight throughout history, playing every role possible. What began as a serious item of clothing to represent opulence and authority, shifted to connote grief and mourning, and eventually became the symbol of ease for the working class.
In modern times, whether it’s a sleek tuxedo your date wants to wear which is absolutely swoon-worthy, or a powerful black jumpsuit, black has the power to anchor one’s look and come across as professional and chic – at the same time! While it may be a monotone – its one colour that boasts significant history, adapting itself to the needs of a certain era – justifying its position as a staple.
