In a country where international brands are often seen as status symbols, fast fashion chains have managed to position themselves as aspirational, or dare I say luxurious in a way. However, beneath the elegant store interiors and influencer-driven marketing, lies an uncomfortable and undeniable truth. These brands thrive on exploitative labor, environmental degradation, and unsustainable consumption. Around the world market, fast fashion brands like H&M and Zara are considered affordable brands. In India however, traditional retail is mostly dominated by the local markets due to which these brands have been rebranded (perhaps intentionally or otherwise) as premium shopping brands.
Their pricing strategy helps promote this idea: if you bought a dress from H&M, it may cost around ₹1000-₹3000. You could, however, find that same dress in local street markets for a fraction of that price. These higher price levels create an illusion of exclusivity amongst the people, making fast fashion a status driven choice rather than just being a convenient one. You could argue that the quality of the dresses you get from these brands in India are better than the ones from domestic/cheaper shops/brands, but is that really the case? These fast fashion brands churn out mass-produced clothing using cheap labor and low quality materials. It’s not luxury, it’s just cheap, repackaged.
Hidden costs of fast fashion
I’m sure you are already aware of how unsustainable fast fashion brands really are, however, were you aware of its actual ramifications in India?
Wage theft
In Karnataka, thousands of garment workers who were stitching clothes for H&M and Zara were robbed of their wages. According to an article by The Guardian in 2020, wages which amount to a staggering â‚ą430 crore (which is approximately ÂŁ41 million) were denied to the workers who made the clothes. Many workers who were already earning small salaries were pushed into extreme poverty, where they struggled to buy food and pay rent, all while producing clothes that would sell for thousands in our large upscale malls. (The Guardian, 2021)
Child labor
Cotton farms that supply brands like H&M and Zara have employed children who are as young as six-years-old, forcing them to work in unsafe conditions for little or no pay. Many of these children are trapped in debt bondage and are working to repay family loans. These children handle harmful chemicals and work long hours in the extreme heat, all so that these fast fashion brands can keep their production costs low. (Business of Fashion, 2025)
Gender exploitation
In India’s garment industry, the workforce mainly consists of women, however, they face some of the worst working conditions. In factories supplying H&M in Bangalore, female workers have been subjected to physical abuse, wage theft, and sexual harassment. There are reports of supervisors beating workers for failing to meet production targets. Furthermore, many women are forced to work long hours in unsafe conditions with no job security. These big brands profit from their labor as they toil their whole life away trying to earn a living for their families. (Asia Floor Wage Alliance, 2018)
The hoax of sustainability
Fast fashion brands like H&M and Zara have drives where they encourage customers to return old clothes to them for “recycling”. However, less than 1% of these clothes are actually turned into new garments. Most of them end up in landfills, second hand markets in Africa, or are incinerated, which causes further damage to the environment. Despite their marketing claims, it is no secret that these brands rely on overproduction and disposable fashion, making their claims of “sustainability” a marketing gimmick. (Business of Fashion, 2023)
In conclusion, we should be aware that fast fashion in India is a paradox. It is positioned as premium whilst being built upon cheap labor and environmental destruction. Fast fashion brands like H&M and Zara may sell the illusion of luxury, but in reality they are just mass market brands with a hidden cost. What you as a consumer can do is choose ethical brands, support local artisans, and be mindful of your shopping habits. Always remember that as consumers you hold power. So the next time you go shopping at these brands, ask yourself – Is this really worth it?