Wien ist anders. ‘Vienna is different’ is the slogan that the city uses to advertise itself, and the distinct character of this city truly cannot be compared to anything else. In fact, if there was only one thing I could try and express to you about this place, it would be its magnificent character. Sure, the history and culture are rich, but the honesty, charm and self-awareness you will find here is incomparable to anywhere else. I’m lucky to have been to a lot of places, but few have stayed with me for so long and so vividly. Vienna feels to me like an old, honest friend – the type you love for all their good and bad quirks, one who will follow you in your memories in so many unexpected ways.
The first things that might come to mind when thinking about Vienna typically include classical music, ballrooms, pastries and Wiener Schnitzel. These kitschy elements are as much a part of the culture as old-fashioned coffee houses, horse carriages and the opera. Vienna will always live in the past – there is a saying here that if the apocalypse happens, we should all come to Vienna, because here everything happens fifty years later. The old and dusty will always be a part of the capital of Austria, but the Viennese wear it well. We embrace the dust and kitsch, and live our lives in excess as a homage to our culture. It’s all about indulgence, and an awareness that one must not take life so seriously. We are master drinkers, smokers, eaters, relaxers and all-round enjoyers. From the familiarly annoyed and banterously rude waiters, to the fact that potatoes on the side count as a ‘vegetable’ to your meal, we are masters at just not giving a fuck. There are plenty of cafés left where people sit all day with their newspapers, chainsmoking and drinking coffee under the cultural hub of the legendary coffee house establishments, of which many have been left unchanged for centuries.
Yet there is so much more than the past that makes the city and the youth culture is growing stronger by the minute. Student life here is very vibrant and there are definitely a lot of interesting hubs to keep an eye out for. The city is organized into twenty-three districts, all of which have their own distinct character, allowing for a very dynamic culture.
Some of the best days I have spent here have simply consisted of doing nothing – hanging out in one of the countless beautiful parks, sitting on top of some hill watching over the city, going for drinks in the buzzing first, seventh or fourth districts, or a swim or a boat trip on the beautiful Danube river. One of the safest cities, there are few places in Vienna to avoid or feel concerned about. Summer nights never end here, and the city is buzzing until at least six in the morning if you head to the right places. You are bound to make new friends if you go out on a night adventure in Vienna, and the chances of an after-hour at some stranger’s house with a bunch of new friends are pretty high. It’s all part of living life to the fullest for the Viennese. Acquaintances are made and lost all the time, but we never forget.
Going out in Vienna is pretty relaxed and pared down. Of course there are a handful of fancy and snobby clubs, but you will have the best nights in one of the many electronic music venues. The city is especially amazing for techno and deep house, but there is a broad range available for anyone to enjoy. In most places, people are very relaxed and willing to have a great time, and there is definitely A LOT of dancing! We love our trusty takeaway sausage- and kebab- stands, and swear by these greasy snacks as hangover cures and general pit stops before resuming the night.
The lifestyle in Vienna contains the perfect mixture of humility, expressed in healthy sarcasm and a teasing attitude, and a taste for treating oneself. ‘Gönnen’ (to indulge) is a keyword here, and this relaxed taste for life is expressed in so many ways in Viennese culture. The food is heavy and indulgent – from pastries to creamy coffee, to Austria’s obsession with meat and carbs, the cuisine is definitely not light. ‘Wellness’ goes beyond health here: it is a lifestyle that allows for indulgence and maximum pleasure at all times. This is also reflected in the more laissez-faire and egalitarian politics of Vienna, where people mainly have the freedom to live as they please. Many coffee houses, bars and clubs still allow you to smoke indoors (although there are of course non-smoking areas).
Here are some of my personal favourites that you should not miss if you ever swing by:
My favourite café to sit in and people watch, read, work or meet friends in is ‘phil’. It feels like a cosy living room, and functions as a café, bar, book and DVD shop around the clock.
Sit outside in the garden of a ‘Heuriger’ with a white wine spritzer or Radler (Shandi) for pared down Oktoberfest vibes in the summer.
The nightclub Pratersauna is legendary and used to have swimming pools indoors. Although it has been renovated, you can still go swimming in the outside pool in summertime if you need a quick break from clubbing. Every two weeks, it’s open until about 4pm the next day and there is music outside as well.
Gartenbaukino is the most interesting cinema you will ever step foot into. Legend has it that Martin Scorsese once called it the prettiest cinema ever!
The museums in Vienna are brilliant as well. Besides the classic art history and natural history museum (which, by the way is stunning – most of the displays are still original from over a hundred years ago!), there is the Museumsquartier which houses modern art and multiple bars, restaurants and small art collectives. In the summer, you can sit at the centre on geometric shapes called Enzis and relax. In the evening, this is a great place to meet people for some beers before heading to the city! Another great museum is the Museum Angewandter Kunst (MAK) which houses a diverse range of art, design and architecture. The building is also absolutely stunning!
The Zollergasse area is full of interesting shops, cafés and bars, so are the general districts ‘Neubau’ and ‘Wieden’.
Public transport in Vienna is brilliant and incredibly well connected – and because the city is fairly small, yet interesting all over, you can get from one corner to the other within an hour at most. The underground will take you anywhere all night long on the weekends, so you could go home whenever, although it is highly likely that you will end up partying somewhere until sunrise and end up taking the first services anyway.
Watch to get in the mood: The Third Man, Before Sunrise
Listen to: Vienna – Ultravox, anything by Falco
People from Vienna: Egon Schiele, Gustav Klimt, Falco, Michael Haneke, Sigmund Freud, Ludwig Wittgenstein, Christoph Waltz