Walking around campus, NYC, or even anywhere on the East Coast this fall, you may have noticed a strange phenomenon: an influx of burly, formal-looking garments that almost engulf the wearer. Trench coats–traditionally beige, cinched at the waist, double-breasted, and falling to the mid calf–have become a part of the Gen Z fashion renaissance and can now be found in a variety of cuts, lengths, and colors. But where on Earth did they come from?Â
Trench coats are anything but new. The inspiration for Thomas Burberry’s (yes, that Burberry) original trench coat design came from French and British soldiers in World War I who wore heavy, bulky rain protection called serge greatcoats. In 1879, Burberry invented gaberdine fabric, a much lighter-weight but equally-waterproof material, which he used in his rain jacket proposal for the British Army. This was the first official trench coat—and far from what we see Upper West Siders wearing to grab coffee. Picture this: the signature British military waterproof cape combined with the regulation greatcoat. Stylish, right? British officers certainly thought so. Signified by its D-ring waist cinching, shoulder strap epaulettes, and large pockets, the trench was quickly a hit among officers. As it was such a fashionable and functional garment, many veterans even kept their coats after the war, and the design spread across civilian England. Noticing the innovation of their British counterparts’ waterproof dress, other armies across the globe quickly followed suit to have their own trench coats in time for World War II.Â
As different countries and cultures adopted Burberry’s classic trench, they naturally began to adapt the design for their own needs. Short trenches popped up in the US Army, and more smock-style coats were adapted by British snipers. Eventually, the coat gained its fame in the media with features in Casablanca (1942) and The Pink Panther: Inspector Clouseau (1968). Even modern characters like Doctor Who and Harry Potter frequently sport a trench. But with modernity comes inevitable changes.Â
The jackets you’ve eyed in the windows of Old Navy and Zara are, of course, not quite the same as the ones British soldiers used to wear. For starters, that revolutionary gabardine fabric? Not so revolutionary in 2025. And not cheap either. Accessibly priced trench coats like those in the aforementioned department stores are often made out of cheaper materials like cotton, viscose and polyester. Only high-end heritage stores like Burberry tend to offer gabardine trench garments. Of course, the rise of trenches as a fashion trend has led to many leather,pleather, and even completely wool variations (which used to just be a part of the lining).
From price, to material, to that perfect fit, searching for a trench coat in 2025 can be quite an arduous task. Many take to thrifting in order to find high quality clothing at a more accessible price point. But this popular practice does come with a drawback. The reality is, Thomas Burberry’s original design was no more than a cleverly crafted windbreaker, as wearing multiple coats to protect from the harsh English weather was common practice at the time. This outer-shell style of jacket is likely why trench coat sizes used to be so much larger than that of a standard outerwear garment. In recent years, modern brands have corrected this sizing error, since the practice of jacket layering has changed. Take note: if you find yourself thrifting a vintage trench on an online platform like Depop or Vinted where you can’t try the jacket on, don’t pay attention to the sizing label. Instead, carefully check waist, length, and inseam measurements to ensure a perfect fit for your needs!Â
Inspired to get a trench yet? While they may be an expensive addition to your closet, the frequency with which Barnard Baddies wear them and the extensive history and popularity of the garment suggests they are a worthwhile investment!