Fashion has always followed social movements, being the expression of a certain culture. Its definition not only addresses trendy styles, but also a form of self expression that breaks down paradigms and common senses of “what is acceptable” in terms of clothing.
Thinking about its history, it is impossible not to mention female names whose influence in the fashion universe is present to this day. Thankfully to their vision and courage, those women shaped the style of their time, leaving remarkable contributions to the industry.
coco chanel
“I don’t do fashion. I am fashion” – This quote from Coco Chanel sums up pretty well her importance on the fashion industry. Being one of the most influential designers from the 20th century, she was the pioneering stylist who simplified silhouettes down in a time when women used to wear corsets to slim the waist as much as possible. The iconic designer’s goal was to free the ladies and make them breathe while wearing her designs, just like men did in theirs.
Coco introduced menswear inspired pieces to the female wardrobe, such as trousers, a piece of clothing that became popular as a fashion statement, especially during a time when women started to work at jobs once considered male-only. She also had a “love affair” with jersey, a fabric that gave a sportswear touch to her creations. This material was seen in dresses, skirts and sweaters.
The true game changer in Coco’s popularity was the “Chanel Suit”, a two-set piece introduced in the 1920s that was crafted in a slim skirt and a collarless jacket made of tweed. Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Brigitte Bardot and Princess Diana were some of the main celebrities who elevated this classic clothing to a glamorous status.
All her designs and more (the little black dress and the Chanel nº5 perfume, for example) can be defined as fashion staples that last a lifetime.
vivienne westwood
Vivienne Westwood was a strong presence in the fashion industry not only because of her authentic creations, but also of what she represented to the underground culture. Since her first appearance in the 70s, Westwood has challenged the rules and redefined concepts. She was one the most transgressive and revolutionary names in the world of fashion. Along with the punk movement, the stylist went against the hippie aesthetic prevailing at the time by creating designs that presented a social criticism in a way.
In 1971, Vivienne and her husband Malcom McLaren, who was about to be the agent of the band Sex Pistols, opened their first store named Let it Rock. It was the first one to ever sell biker clothes full of leather and spikes, a nod to the fashion movement that was gaining popularity. With the slogan “rubber wear for the office”, the store was renamed in 1974 as “SEX”, a shop “unlike anything else going on in England at the time”. By the time when “God Save the Queen” went number one in the music charts, Vivienne had already held the position as Sex Pistols’ costume designer, being responsible for creating the visual identity for the rock band.
In 1985, Westwood no longer had the partnership with her former husband and her creations were also influenced by this change: they became more feminine and structured. Unlike any other fashion brand, Vivienne Westwood’s designs combined historical references, especially from the 19th century, with controversial and bold choices that represented her personality.
audrey hepburn
Brunette, with a short haircut and a slim figure, the actress was the opposite of the beauty standard of that decade, which before her was centered around the movie star Marilyn Monroe. However, she established her role as a fashion reference due to her classy and elegant style.
“My look is attainable. Women can look like me by flipping out their hair, buying the large sunglasses, and the little sleeveless dresses”, she said once. Her timeless sense of fashion goes from a casual style, such as capri pants with striped t-shirt, to a more sophisticated look, like the countless Givenchy dresses she wore, whose designer was a close friend of hers.
Audrey was also the muse for some fashion designers. Hubert de Givenchy was the main stylist behind the many gowns she was seen wearing. According to the actress, Givenchy´s creations gave her self-confidence. In her homage, Salvatore Ferragamo created the “Ballerina Shoe”, the famous footwear that she wore during the musical “Funny Face” inspired by her experience as a former classical ballerina.
Also, how can we not talk about the fashion in Breakfast at Tiffany’s? The little black dress, matched with the pearl necklace and the beige trench-coat, worn by Holly Golighlty, Hepburn’s character, is a fashion statement.
Although Audrey Hepburn became famous in the 50s, it is still possible to see references to her style nowadays. That’s why she is considered a fashion icon.
carmen miranda
Carmen Miranda’s importance to fashion goes beyond her career as a singer and actress, as she is remembered for bringing elements of Brazilian culture to the global spotlight (even though she was born in Portugal).
During the 40s, she was the highest paid actress in Hollywood, introducing to the US what was known as the “tropical style”: vibrant colors, floral prints and exotic accessories were always incorporated in her outfits. In addition, lace tops, gold jewelry and cloth turbans couldn’t be missing, as she mentions in the song “O Que é Que a Baiana Tem?” (What Does the Baiana Have?).
Carmen was also responsible for creating a persona that became famous because of her flamboyant outfits, often combining polka dot dresses, feathers, and tropical fruits (like bananas and pineapples) in her headpieces. Inspired by Afro-Brazilian women from Bahia in the northeast of Brazil, this aesthetic helped solidify the idea of joyful fashion connected to nature and exoticism.
It is undeniable to say that the singer used fashion as an artistic expression, combining dance and music. She is a solid example of performance style.
rei kawakubo
Founder of the fashion brand Commes des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo is one of the most influential and revolutionary personalities in the history of contemporary fashion.
Famous for challenging traditional beauty and silhouettes conventions, her designs have proposed a new relationship between body and clothes by presenting asymmetric and unexpected shapes. More than just garments, Kawakubo’s creations are compared to art pieces.
The main concept of her aesthetic is deconstruction, and that’s why some people can have controversial opinions about it. But, to fashion enthusiasts, she is the synonymous of authenticity. Going against what is trendy, she challenges other stylists to “think outside the box”.
In 1982, she presented oneof her most remarkable runaway collections, named Destroy. With autumn-winter pieces, it featured garments that were purposely distressed and unfinished, and predominantly black. The show shocked the audience because of its newness and strangeness, elements that weren’t popular in that time.
Being responsible for revolutionizing Western fashion standards, Rei Kawakubo is one of the most important figures from the avant-garde movement that goes beyond rules and boundaries.
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The article above was edited by Mariana Camargo Aguiar.
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