Most people who are into fashion have heard the stories of great designers like Coco Chanel, Christian Dior and even Karl Lagerfeld, but for some reason, little is said about an amazing stylist who brought countless innovations to the fashion world: Yves Saint Laurent.
Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint Laurent was born in 1936 in Oran, Algeria. His family was from an upper social class as his father was president of an insurance company. Although the money came from his father, it was his mother who introduced him to the fashion world. Yves started drawing sketches of his own clothing creations until, at just 17 years old, his mother took him to Paris so that he could show his talent to Michael de Brunhoff, editor of French Vogue at the time, (I think we would all like to have such a mother!).
After impressing everyone, the young man moved to Paris and enrolled in the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. From then on, Laurent’s career only got bigger and bigger. Michael introduced him to Christian Dior and they ended up getting along very well. No wonder Yves was called Christian 2 early in his career.
Personally, I think the best part of this story begins when he got to take over the Maison Dior after the death of his predecessor. While Christian Dior was an icon of haute couture, Yves Saint Laurent took a brand that wasn’t being taken too seriously, revamped it while maintaining elegance, and provided us with the iconic pieces we love to this day with the “Trapeze” collection. Instead of tighter dresses with an accentuated waist, Yves brought comfort to women’s fashion with the A-shaped or trapeze dress that became a great success (honestly, who doesn’t like a comfy dress that is still delicate?).
Unfortunately, at what he thought was the height of his career, Laurent had to leave the Maison and serve in the Algerian War of Independence. The designer suffered from many attacks from fellow soldiers and ended up in a French psychiatric hospital due to nervous exhaustion. Back in civilization, Yves was unable to keep his job at Dior and had to leave.
Even though this is a sad part to tell, we all know that’s not where this brilliant man’s story ended. Along with his business and romantic partner, Pierre Bergé, he opened the much-loved Yves Saint Laurent and was soon one of the most beloved fashion designers in Paris. In 1966, he came up with the famous prêt-à-porter (or ready-to-wear) for his brand. Yves created iconic pieces not only for fashion, but also for the women’s emancipation movement. Some examples are Le smoking, the first all-black suit made especially for women, elegant overalls and various jackets.
Even though he owns one of the biggest brands of the 1980s, his ex-husband Pierre said that Saint Laurent suffered from severe depression and lived only for fashion. He explained that was was the only thing that could make him happy. After some time of marriage, Yves and Pierre divorced, but remained partners and friends for another 30 years.
In 2008, six years after retiring and seven years after being honored with the title of “Commander of the Region of Honor” by the French president, Yves Saint Laurent died at the age of 71 from a brain tumor. Today the brand’s creative direction is governed by Anthony Vaccarello, but the great legacies of Mr. Laurent (a man who loved fashion so much and was so supportive of women) will forever be remembered.
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The article above was edited by Mariana do Patrocínio.
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