Today, we know that fashion is more than appearance. What we wear communicates identity, values, and perspectives. But there was a time when haute couture shows were simpler and far less expressive. Diversity of bodies, textures, and silhouettes was rare, most shows followed predictable patterns with nearly identical models.
In the early 1990s, two fashion houses transformed haute couture and challenged these standards: Alexander McQueen and Thierry Mugler.
While running his own brand, McQueen took over Givenchy in 1996, succeeding John Galliano. At the House, he began an era of iconic shows built on storytelling, collections that communicated full narratives through their garments.
Thierry Mugler, already a major name in couture, believed fashion shows should go beyond simple exhibitions. To him, they were worlds of their own, runway productions with the scale and drama of Broadway.
Both designers pioneered the concept of runway as performance. Their work later influenced houses like Iris van Herpen, Schiaparelli, and Thom Browne. Even with vastly different aesthetics, McQueen and Mugler shared one essential trait: exceptional craftsmanship, the foundation of any designer who defines an era.
Iconic Haute couture Shows
Givenchy F/W 1998 “Joan” (by Alexander McQueen)
A tribute to Joan of Arc, this show explored feminine strength with medieval and religious-inspired silhouettes.
Its most iconic moment was the finale: a model standing inside a ring of real fire, an image that became one of fashion’s most unforgettable scenes.
McQueen Spring/Summer 1998: “Golden Shower”
Known for Gisele Bündchen’s breakthrough moment, this show featured the model early in her international career wearing a look far from her usual style. The emotional impact, including Gisele crying backstage, became part of the fashion narrative surrounding the collection.
Thierry Mugler Haute Couture F/W 1997
Inspired by mythical chimeras, the show featured looks that blended human and animal characteristics.
The garments incorporated a mix of feathers, leather, metal elements, iridescent textures, and scale-like materials, pushing the boundaries of fabrication and fantasy.
With these groundbreaking shows, both designers built a legacy that remains influential today. Haute couture runways increasingly explore unusual locations, innovative materials, and strong historical or conceptual narratives.
Fashion’s storytelling now varies from brand to brand, shaped by their identities and histories. Through globalization, politics, social media, climate issues, cultural shifts, designers create immersive worlds that transport their audiences into the stories they want to tell.
In the end, fashion isn’t just about what you wear, but how it makes you feel.
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The article above was edited by Giovanna Rodrigues.
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