I have been living in Southern France for three weeks now. I’m studying abroad in a small city about an hour from the Pyrenées and an hour from the Atlantic, called Pau. Pronounced “po,” not “pow” — don’t be fooled.
It was stupidly charming for the first week when it was perpetually sunny and the palm trees sparkled. The snow on the mountains glowed and I couldn’t believe my luck with the “winter.” I’ve lived in Southern and Central California my whole life, so I can’t say I’ve ever survived an actual winter. Planning to move to a mountainous region of Europe in the middle of winter was a little worrisome.
And since that sunshiney first few days? It’s been raining for two weeks straight Not that I’m complaining; I’m catching up on all the stormy weather I missed as a youth. I actually kind of like it, because it is the perfect excuse to hole up in a cafe all day … Not that you need an excuse in France.
One thing I absolutely love about French culture is the pride they take in their regional products and cuisine. Each region is known for certain specialties. This region, Béarn, is known for its duck, foie gras, Jurançon wines, a delicious cheese called Fromage des Pyrenées and a dish called Poule au Pot (literally “chicken in a pot”).
Chicken in a pot and Jurançon wines have some iconic history here. You can’t get far in Pau without hearing about their beloved King Henry IV. According to legend, when he was born they drank wine from Jurançon, a neighboring town. King Henry IV was a benevolent king and is probably most acclaimed for his dedication to supplying adequate food for his people. He believed that every family should be able to eat a chicken at least once a week which is where the dish “Poule au Pot” comes from.
And now, if you’ll excuse me, I am going to go eat some fabulous duck.