With the conclusion of Paris Fashion Week, this Fall 2011 season also comes to a close – and it feels like we have seen everything, from full-on glamour to pared-down minimalism to even a shocking scandal (with John Galliano’s departure from Dior and Christophe Decarnin’s mysterious absence from the Balmain show). Yet one thing that was not shocking was the inspiration and creative spark that these shows delivered. Once again, fashion managed to draw on some spectacular motifs, play with them, and adapt them into something completely new. This reinvention and creation is what I look forward to most in a fashion show, as designers manage to surprise, provoke, and build a lasting impression in my memory.
One name that was creating a lot of buzz in New York this February was Oliver Theyskens and his first collection for Theory. His catwalk presentation certainly lived up to its pre-show hype. Theyskens’ Theory was all about practicality, so rather fittingly it showcased various versions and interpretations of pants. Models stalked down the runway in low-slung, pleated trousers, fitted corduroys, and skintight short shorts. This dominance of pants made the sprinkling of featured dresses rather surprising. Theyskens’ dresses were, for the most part, floaty, uninhibited, and free – continuing the trend that the pants set, these were built for mobility in any sort of situation. However, the dress that made a huge impression was a long, black, jacquard gown accessorized with a black fur shrug. It was a spot of Edwardian impracticality, a fantasy that escalated the catwalk into a realm of almost historical fashion – a motif for how our day-to-day world always has an element of theatricality.
As the shows moved on to Milan, the visual aesthetic also progressed to encompass the flamboyant city’s atmosphere. Out of all the shows, Emilio Pucci seemed to embody this quite memorably. Firstly, Peter Dundas has recently been creating luxurious hippie-style collections; now, he switched gears, which in itself created a different show than the type usually expected from Pucci. Rather than being inspired by icons of the 1960s, Dundas turned instead to the realm of fairy tales – glamorous fairy tales, that is. The clothes that he sent down the runway seemed to be inspired by the landscape derived from the Grimm brothers’ stories. There were accents such as busty corsets, Tyrol hats, dirndl skirts, and even velvet knickers, which all featured the signature Pucci print. The evening dresses injected extra shots of glamour, as Dundas featured several show-stopping pieces, with cutouts at various points on the bodice. Pucci’s overall style is to suit the needs of a jet-set type girl. This time, Dundas assumes that the girl will be traveling through the rich green forests and winter landscape of dreamy Austrian fairy tales, a la a sophisticated Little Red Riding Hood. Of course, a selection of the most thought-provoking, unforgettable fashion shows would not be complete without an homage to the ultimate king of designers, Karl Lagerfeld. Yes, he is a classic choice, yet one that never retreats to the tried-and-true formula of what is conventionally accepted as timeless or stylish.
Lagerfeld challenges tradition while maintaining it, and this Fall 2011, his show was quite literally explosive. The backdrop was dark, with smoking rocks that implied a volcano was not far away. Shadows of dark trees lined the walls of the space, fog drifted about, and the wooden runway appeared to be smoking with coal. As the show started, two medieval drawbridges were raised at both ends of the runway. Such an apocalyptic setting caused controversy before the runway show even began. When it did, the clothes were inimitable. Colors were dusty blue, grey, and black, as though the clothes had just been coated in volcanic ash. The fit was distinctly masculine, as Lagerfeld abandoned any sort of ruffle or frill. In fact, the collection seemed to be sophisticated street-wear, catering to a younger audience. The show was, overall, a performance that showcased Lagerfeld’s tremendous creative talent, as well as his flair for making a show so theatrical it qualifies as art in itself.
And so, the traveling circus of fashion weeks has concluded – for now at least. Designers have left their audiences with enough inspiration to keep them happy as rainy spring approaches. Fall 2011 in itself was truly memorable – maybe not for entirely the right reasons – but the clothes, style, and ideas were exhilarating and fresh. Designers have once again proven that fashion is an art, and whether it is intricate and rich or clean, understated chic, it has the capacity to enliven imaginations and trigger ideas.