I’m fortunate enough to have visited Venice three times now and it still hasn’t lost its charm. Walking beside the tiny canals is almost like stepping into another world. The distinctive architecture surrounds you wherever you go and some have even called it a ‘living museum’. It’s undeniably an expensive trip, however with some forward planning you can still enjoy the floating city on a budget.
When it comes to accommodation don’t limit yourself to just looking for hotels and apartments on the island of Venice itself. Mestre is a city on the mainland and from here you can get the train or bus across the lagoon without any hassle. Check out websites like hostelworld and hostel.com- despite what the name suggests you can also find budget apartments and B&Bs, which will save you from forking out for an expensive hotel.
When travelling around Venice avoid water taxis and the infamous Gondolas; instead use the vaporetta or “water buses” which travel all around the lagoon. By buying a Rolling Venice card from one of the Hellovenezia kiosks at the bus or train station you can make a nice saving on travel expenses. The card costs €4 and you can use it to buy a 72 hour travel card for only €20 instead of the usual €35. This travel card is valid on all Venice, Mestre and Lido land and water transportation, making travelling around the island and surrounding areas a breeze. The card also provides you discounts for shops, restaurants and museums- not bad for only €4.
I’d start any visit to Venice by hopping onto one of the Vaporettos which travel down the grand Canal– grab one of the outdoor seats and take in the city as you slowly move along from stop to stop. Most of these water buses stop at St Mark’s Square, which will be one of the places you’re definitely going to want to visit. (It’s home to the Doge’s Palace, Basilica and of course the beautiful colonnaded square itself.) My tip would be to get there early before the masses of other tourists arrive to give you chance to wander round and get a real sense of the place in peace. I’d absolutely recommend looking round the Basilica and it’s completely free (there is a charge to go upstairs and see the golden horses though!). The queue might look horrible and long, but any time I’ve been it’s moved along super fast. A note for the ladies among us though: I wore a dress the day I visited the Basilica last year and they forced me to buy an overpriced sheet of fabric to cover my knees- so make sure you have a scarf to wrap around you to avoid this charge if your legs are on show!
One of my favourite things to do is visit the square on an evening when the bands of the cafes that line the colonnade begin to play, rather than taking a seat at one of these places that’ll charge you through the nose for the pleasure. Get a takeout ice-cream and enjoy the ambience as you stroll around or relax on a nearby bench.
My favourite district of Venice has to be Dorsoduro. Here you can find restaurants with seating floating on the lagoon itself which makes for a really special evening meal. The district offers a gorgeous view of St Mark’s Square over the waters and it’s one of my favourite places to stroll along by the lagoon’s edge. While you’re here make sure to pay a visit to the wonderful mask shop Ca’Macana – a traditional mask maker whose products are all handmade and reasonably priced. If you’re going to buy a mask in Venice avoid the stands on the streets and visit a proper shop like Ca’Macana, you’ll get a much better quality souvenir for your money!
Other things I’d recommend adding onto your list of things to do would be to pay a visit to the Jewish quarter in the Cannaregio district. Less touristy then other parts of Venice and steeped in history, the campo itself has only two entrances and is a pleasant alternative to other tourist sites on the island. Also consider taking a water bus to the islands of Murano and Burano– famous for their glass and lace productions respectively. When getting off the boat at Murano turn left and follow the path around until you reach the glass workshop; here you can sit and watch the glassmakers at work creating incredibly delicate pieces in no time at all. I was mesmerised the last time I visited. It’s free to go in but you can make a donation if you choose to. Burano is slightly different from the other island, with its brightly painted houses lining the canals making it a refreshing place just to take a stroll.
My final tip would be to get lost; it’s probably a bit of a cliché but it’s one for a reason. Visiting the main attractions of Venice is undeniably fantastic but if you want to get a real sense of the city put your map in your bag and just stroll around, who knows what you’ll stumble across!
All images Beth Laverack