When Euphoria first premiered in 2019, it was, no doubt, a cultural reset. No other show had graced us with such vibrant colour palettes, innovative cinematography, and unique aesthetics. And no other show had done justice to the portrayal of gritty and realistic issues within a teenage drama series either- Skins (2008-2014) does not even come close. The makeup looks in Euphoria were a big hit, impacting an entire generation and igniting the ‘euphoria make-up’ trends that have filled our TikTok and Instagram feeds over the last few years.
Euphoria as a whole deals with pretty severe topics and complex characters, who I could analyse for longer than my third-year dissertation. What may come as a shock to most, however, is that the makeup, dress, and style of each character has just as much intricacy and thought behind it as the script, often reflecting and complimenting, the mood, or conflicts of its scenes.
Head makeup designer Doniella Davy (@donni.davy on Instagram) has allowed Euphoria audiences to delve into the inner workings of her mind since the show premiered. On a weekly basis, Donni posts in-depth analyses of the makeup looks, in light of each scene, and her reasons behind her artistic choices. She even goes as far as revealing alternative designs that she had considered, drawings within her sketchbook, her inspirations, and the makeup products used to achieve these effects.
In season one, the abundance of glitter, rhinestones, bright liners, and out-going makeup looks characterised the show, undoubtedly, amplifying its popularity. The purple hue of the show, alongside the remarkable makeup looks, caught everyone’s eye and created a fascination, that not only attracted many viewers but also encouraged them to experiment with their own style.
[ Euphoria glitters that were used on the show: https://getlemonhead.com/products/euphoric-glitter-pro-squad ]
The majority of season one’s make-up looks have been deemed as iconic, particularly, Maddy’s bold winged eyeliner, outlined with jewels at the carnival, where, in her purple cut-out IAMGIA outfit, she takes molly and calls Nate’s mum a “c*nt” (S1 E4: Shook ones Pt.II). Another favourite look of mine is Jules’ modern spin on Claire Danes’ Juliet from Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo and Juliet (1996), where she drapes her eyebrows, eyes, and cheeks with gold flakes and red eyeshadow to accentuate her gothic angel costume (S1 E6: The Next Episode).
The public’s reception of Davy’s innovative makeup was so great that she managed to open her own beauty product line selling face stickers that mimic the eyeliners seen on the show: Donni X Face Lace Collection. In a recent Instagram post, she announced the upcoming release for her new makeup line, Half Magic, though further updates are yet to be released.
All in all, every Euphoria make-up look in the first season was an extremely detailed masterpiece; from Cassie’s fully rhinestoned, glittery blue face in the season finale, to Kat’s make-up reflecting her budding confidence as her looks get increasingly bolder.
However, this all takes a slight turn in season two…
In contrast to season one, which was made to feel like a hazy, neon, fever dream, season two moves away from that dream-like state, becoming rawer, darker, and far more explicit. Leading director Sam Levinson states, “If season one was a house party at 2 am, season two should feel like 5 am, way past the point which everyone should have gone home”.
Not only different in terms of vibes, this season also changed their cinematography game altogether. Working alongside Kodak, the entirety of season two is reported to have been shot on Ektachrome Kodak 35mm film. Ektachrome is known for its super fine grain and saturated colours, giving this season its raw and dark edge. Season two’s colour palette is significantly different also, amplifying the sense of maturity that Levinson aims to convey.
Whereas Levinson told Davy to use makeup as an aesthetic, “emotionally evocative, expressive” form to “help show the journey of the teens on the show” in the first season, season two’s makeup looks have become a lot subtler, refined, and textured, in order to emphasise the character’s maturity and growth. The glitter, rhinestones, and bold liners that gave the show its fame have not made an appearance in season two.
Davy revealed that a lot of her inspiration for this season’s looks stemmed from 1960’s minimalism, such as Twiggy-inspired lower lashes and funky winged liners, labelling this season as “Season 1’s more introverted sister” who might be minimalistic but definitely has a bold and defining edge.
The change in cameras and cinematic modes this season led to the directorial decision that foundation and powder were not to be used on set. Instead, Davy used the product ‘Indeed Labs Nano Blur’, on the skin to blur pores, while consciously portraying realistic teenage skin: a dewy and textured base without the finely polished foundation blur.
Characters like Maddy, however, do get to wear foundation due to her all-around polished and full-face looks. Interestingly, this season, Alexa Demie, who plays Maddy, became a part of the artistic team and was allowed to experiment with her character’s style, makeup, and designing process.
The makeup in Euphoria almost always demonstrates each of the character’s mental states, and it is this minuscule attention to detail that makes me regard the show so highly. While Jules’ dyed hair in the first season reflected her wavering mental health, this season’s drastic chop is supposed to symbolise a big change in her psyche. In this light, a lot of the character’s makeup this season also reflects their mental states, with Cassie’s, in particular, being the most seemingly obvious.
In Episode one, “Trying to Get to Heaven Before They Close the Door”, Cassie is presented as a foil for Maddy, given that they both fall for the abusive, ‘macho-man’, Nate. Cassie is wearing a pink, thin rhinestone wing to convey an innocent twinkle around her anxiety-ridden eyes as she sleeps with her best friend’s ex. In contrast to Maddy’s bold, sharp, statement eyeliner that shows her progression from her toxic relationship with Nate, placing her as a character as assertive as her makeup looks.
Whereas last season Maddy would wear a lot of vibrant and ‘child-like’ makeup looks to appeal to Nate, this season, her wings could “cut through whatever stands in her way: ex-boyfriends, bathroom doors, etc”. Maddy’s makeup looks reflect her maturity, and all-around glow up.
Similarly, Lexi’s looks have become significantly bolder as she finds her own voice this season, be it through falling for our beloved, friendly neighbourhood drug dealer Fezco, or through writing, producing, and starring in her own play that exposes everyone around her.
Lexi’s looks in season one were subtle, baby-like, and not really memorable- except for her classic red lip and iconic Bob Ross costume in episode 6. This season, however, Davy goes all out with Lexi as she begins to grow and assert herself. In season two episode 7 alone, she undergoes multiple looks, from ‘it girl’ parodies, bold ‘60s eyeliner and childhood brace transformations, Lexi Howard is finally receiving the screen time she deserves.
But the show goes beyond portraying pretty makeup looks all the time, it even goes as far as delving into gory SFX (after Nate gets a much-deserved beating in episode 1), depicting Rue’s drug-withdrawal through her ‘no makeup, makeup’ looks, and Cassie’s debilitating mental state through her overly teary-eyed and alarming eye makeup (despite her waking up every day at 4 am to impress Nate).
Euphoria is a show that surpasses all expectations. The extraordinary makeup looks that have shaped the show, however, are continuously adapting and growing within the moulds they have placed themselves in. The show’s entertainment not only stems from the plot, characters, and cinematography but even more so, from its unique presence and sense of style that invites its viewers to delve a little deeper and analyse the surroundings. The intricacies of the plot are only made better by the diligent makeup looks, outfits and nail choices, that compliment each scene beautifully.
Which Euphoria makeup look has been your favourite?