From revolution rebellion to ‘It-Girl’ staple; an introspective as we explore the 300-year evolution of the iconic ballet flat
Not so humble beginnings
Of course, the ballet flat began in the ballet, but not in the silks and ribbons we now know so well. Both men and women wore heeled dance shoes called ‘pompes’, first worn in 17th century France at the Royal Academy of Dance. These shoes were beautifully elegant with intricate designs, forming a suit fit to the aristocratic fashions. However, in a world that prioritised fashion over function, these were rigid, uncomfortable and made performance more difficult.
The Guillotine effect
People eventually realised the importance of beautiful technique rather than just a pretty pair of heels. The French revolution hastened this during the later half of the 17th century as excessive wealth quickly fell out of fashion. According to speculation, the rejection of the heel in France particularly relates to Marie Antoinette, who was said to have walked to the guillotine wearing high-heeled shoes. The public wanted to make a clear statement against everything she represented and so the anti-heel revolution became a form of rebellion against the monarchy. Particularly, it was Marie-Anne de Cupis de Camargo who famously shocked audiences with a switch to a more flexible slipper which allowed her to show off her more intricate footwork.
WarTime rationing
During World War II, leather became scarce due to military use and heels became less practical as more women began to work. It was designer Claire McCardell whose intention was to make fashion more comfortable for everyday use. McCardell once said “I do not like glitter. I like comfort in the rain, in the sun, comfort for active sports, comfort for sitting still and looking pretty. Clothes should be useful.” So, she commissioned Salvatore Capezio (shoemaker for Metropolitan Opera House to create a line worn off stage, adding a hard sole and more comfortable fabric to the ballet shoe for an age of practical, working women.
And god created woman
It was in 1947 that designer Rose Repetto was inspired by her son’s passion for dance to create a new style of ballet shoe for his everyday use. These designs gained the attention famous actress/dancer Brigette Bardot asked Repetto to make a version of this same shoe for her to wear in her upcoming film ‘And God Created Woman’. This manifested the red ‘Cendrillion’ a more round slipper with a small bow at the top and a décolleté shape to reveal the foot. This is the first of what many consider to be the classic ballet flat we know of today. Bardot wore this in the movie and the shoe was an immense hit.
Miss Audrey
From this point onwards, the casual ballet flat would feature on all the It-Girls of the era such as Jackie Kennedy, Princess Diana, and even Audrey Hepburn who really cemented the piece as a timeless staple in the 1957 film ‘Funny Face’. Still to this day, its safe to say Hepburn is an icon for the success of the flat and how we style it even now.
Present day staple
After a decline, the ballet plat flew back to popularity with Miu Miu in 2016, with celebrities like Taylor Swift and Rihanna embracing the style. It was also with Miu Miu that ‘ballet-core’ was officially adopted in the runway for their Fall/Winter 2022 collection which paired the shoe with leg warmers. Another modern addition to this has been the variations such as the controversial ‘split toes’ variation. THE YES Creative and Fashion Director Tomasi Hill tells TZR “They’re a go-to when you’re packing or building a wardrobe of staples. That sort of freedom and flexibility will never go out of style.” “Beyond their versatility, ballet flats have stayed a true classic because there’s an air of romanticism about them…it’s not just a style, but an attitude, too.”