If you’ve heard about underpainting, Tiktok’s newest beauty trend, you probably thought that it was another viral online trend that would come and go. Because applying contour, highlight, and blush before foundation should be illegal… right?
However, underpainting has actually been utilized by makeup artists for decades and is only recently gaining traction on TikTok. Underpainting has been in practice since the Renaissance in the 14th and 15th centuries as artists applied different layers of paint to create greater definition in their artwork. In this medium, underpainting was often monochromatic and defined color values for later in the painting process.
Although contemporary artists still use this ancient technique to add dimensionality to their work, underpainting has changed art forms on #beautytok. As a natural-born creative with a love for experimentation, I’ll take any excuse to use my face as a canvas — so I decided to try underpainting for myself to unpack the truth behind this popular TikTok trend. Is this trend a bust, or will it quickly become a classic makeup technique?
What even is underpainting?
Essentially, underpainting is a way to create dimension on the face. By beginning with concealer, contour, highlight, and blush and then applying your foundation on top, the result appears more natural.
Professional makeup artist Criss Scortezz explains underpainting on TikTok, yet with some caution. In his video, Scortezz warns viewers that underpainting does not produce an everyday look, and rather should be used for up-close HD photography and super glam events.
Los Angeles-based celebrity makeup artist Jill Powell, who works on clients including Sabrina Carpenter and Demi Lovato, told Allure, “All the color goes on first, and then you apply this sheer layer of complexion that softens and blends everything out.” Unlike Scortezz’s wariness, Powell encourages even ill-seasoned makeup users to try out the technique, continuing to tell Allure, “I highly suggest you try this technique if you don’t know how to contour or are intimidated by it. You’ll get a soft shadow peeking through, but it won’t be very strong because of the veil of coverage over top.”
You’ll Need moisturizer, primer, concealer, contour, highlight, and blush
The best part of underpainting is that if you already experiment with makeup, you likely won’t need to buy anything new — the bare necessities are moisturizer, primer, concealer, contour, highlight, and blush.
When testing the trend myself, I discovered that moisturizer is an absolute must. A moisturizer base will prepare the skin for the direct color application while avoiding patchiness and blending errors (trust me, I unfortunately learned that the hard way). Additionally, the extra moisture from the moisturizer aids in the creation of a dewy look.
After moisturizing, apply primer and concealer as you would regularly — then put on contour, highlight, and blush. Depending on what type of look you want — whether that is “a cleaner and brighter” filter or even a “smooth, buttery, and gorgeous” appearance — you may decide to use creamy-based products rather than powder products. You’ll just need to experiment and see what you like best!
The technique is all in the kind of blender you use
When applying your contour, you’ll want to use a densely packed tool. For precise contouring, I recommend a precision flat angled brush like the Real Techniques Makeup Setting Brush. Don’t blend the contour quite yet!
The next step is to apply highlight and blush as normal, as mentioned above. For this step, I prefer to use a larger brush for my blush application as I adore an extra rosy appearance. Think, your crush just walked into the room.
Finally, the foundation can be applied all over the face with a Beautyblender. Makeup artist Jamie Greenberg also told Allure that he prefers to use a dampened Beautyblender. Just make sure your application isn’t too heavy, as the underlying color needs to come through. I recommend using a tinted moisturizer instead of foundation if you prefer a less heavy look. Using a quick and circular motion will help blend the colors together into one layer. Then, use your fingers to buff out any imperfections. Lastly, if you haven’t already, apply your highlight on top.
As a personal fan of powder products, I was hesitant to try this second-skin trend. Although less popular, you can achieve a similar effect using a powder foundation — and if you have oily skin, I definitely would recommend this method.
So, is underpainting worth the hype?
I loved how I looked after trying this trend, but it is definitely not an everyday look. As someone who prefers a more natural look, I would only try underpainting for a glammed-up occasion. According to makeup TikTokers, underpainting is the best for high-definition photographs to provide a natural glow — but for me, it came across as a bit too much for a day of class in my sweatpants.
So, despite #beautytok’s many failures, underpainting may be one of TikTok’s latest successes, given its approval rating by celebrity makeup professionals and beauty bloggers who use the platform to spread seriously helpful tips. Now, have fun and go get camera-ready!