New York Fashion Week as a whole has garnered a reputation for being blasé and leaving much less of an impact in the industry compared to the other fashion weeks. The past few years have been met with much criticism for poor casting choices and designers putting out remakes of past outfits. This time around, however, the looks felt less like designers’ attempts to force themselves into the social media bubble with awkward outdated references. It feels like American designers are finding their voice in a new era and these five collections really showcased what I believe can be a reviving decade for high fashion.
- Anna Sui
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Without exaggeration, this collection is everything. The sweet combination of florals and leather, the club-like lighting, the ambience. It’s like fairytale characters meet 90s high fashion, and we’re so here for it. Fashion is a theatrical and dramatic art, and Anna Sui truly exhibited that with this collection.
Best three
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e41dc07474f9400082c7b45/master/pass/IS5_0329.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e41de066bee850008958750/master/pass/IS5_0783.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e41df9075acfa0008941bf2/master/pass/IS5_0930.jpg
Worst three
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e41dc5575acfa0008941bea/master/pass/IS5_0400.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e41dc9175acfa0008941bec/master/pass/IS5_0430.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e41de8370187d0009c439ed/master/pass/IS5_0876.jpg
- Rodarte
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Rodarte constantly thrills me. If it’s tacky, it’s tacky in a hot way. I feel like the Mulleavy sisters are constantly channelling the brand’s early-2000s roots and adding in the youthful voice the industry truly lacks. There were definitely pieces in the collection that were underwhelming, but the gothic garden atmosphere and the pieces I did love outweighed the negatives.
Best three
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e433b8313884b0008fde4d4/master/pass/IS5_0511.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e4339bdc0888e00084156da/master/pass/IS5_0268.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e433aa6319a950008800652/master/pass/IS5_0387.jpg
Worst three
https://ashttps://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e433c0f5e1ae80008ff5c8a/master/pass/IS5_0583.jpgsets.vogue.com/photos/5e433948c0888e00084156d6/master/pass/IS5_0209.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e4339d9ede6530008a6470c/master/pass/IS5_0313.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e433b4c9da71900089d35a4/master/pass/IS5_0425.jpg
- Brandon Maxwell
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This collection screams fall so loudly, the scent of pumpkin spice is practically crawling out of the screen. Maxwell’s tribute to modern street style definitely does not go unnoticed. While the outfit concepts are fairly overdone and underwhelming at points, the accessorizing and color combinations truly stand out and bring the collection together.
Best three
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e3f6584c10f8a0008c4422a/master/pass/_FIO0563.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e3f66dc474f9400082c7961/master/pass/_FIO0706.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e3f66e881231f000807cb64/master/pass/_FIO0723.jpg
Worst three
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e3f62b425708d000848b1f3/master/pass/_FIO0123.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e3f632325708d000848b1f5/master/pass/_FIO0185.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e3f63c325708d000848b1fa/master/pass/_FIO0294.jpg
- Oscar de la Renta
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Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia have been on a mission to create a more youthful and playful version of the house, something that clashes with the poised and refined image Renta built for his brand. Though I’ve been particularly unmoved by their attempts in the past, this collection marked a turning point in their rejuvenation project. The ruby red lips on the models, the neoclassical set design and the glitz of all the dresses were reminiscent of earlier stages of the brand.
Best three
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e421bbc8bddbc00082232d7/master/pass/_ALE0814.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e421add42a4450008cb5880/master/pass/_ALE0656.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e421af8474f9400082c7b93/master/pass/_ALE0712.jpg
Worst three
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e421bf48bddbc00082232da/master/pass/_ALE0852.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e4214d36d8f97000815da62/master/pass/_ALE0009.jpg
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e42164f42a4450008cb586c/master/pass/_ALE0109.jpg
- Rag & Bone
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Rag & Bone’s chic return to the runway perfectly captures the essence of the fashion industry at the moment. The lights are futuristic in the most casual sense, the clothes bear heavy resemblance to that of an old English novel heroine, and the models have mastered the effortlessly cool vibe that Wainwright envisioned. It’s not a collection that thrilled me particularly, but I thoroughly applaud the diversity of the models and the refreshing nature of this collection.
Best three
https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e3e2411d9f82a0008dda009/master/pass/IS5_0325.jpg
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/rag-bone/slideshow/collection#32
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/rag-bone/slideshow/collection#49
Worst three
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/rag-bone/slideshow/collection#50
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/rag-bone/slideshow/collection#48
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/rag-bone/slideshow/collection#45